My Mods Thread - 2013 Forty-Eight
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Orlando, FL
OK, the stock horn on these bike is a joke... I had a stock horn from the RGC in the spare parts box and decided to see if I could fit it in the Forty-Eight. Well, without the cow bell it fits between the tubes. A little bending of the mounting flat steel and in it goes.
Used a stick-on base for a tie-wrap and got the wire close to the horn and away from the engine.
Does not look that great, but works great and now I can be heard if using the horn... At least is black and blends somewhat with the rest of the bike. Yeah, yeah, I know, bike is dirty. It has been raining a lot here and no sense in washing and detailing when everytime I ride it get extremely dirty due to the weather...
Used a stick-on base for a tie-wrap and got the wire close to the horn and away from the engine.
Does not look that great, but works great and now I can be heard if using the horn... At least is black and blends somewhat with the rest of the bike. Yeah, yeah, I know, bike is dirty. It has been raining a lot here and no sense in washing and detailing when everytime I ride it get extremely dirty due to the weather...
Last edited by wachuko; Jul 1, 2013 at 04:15 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 253
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From: PEI, Canada
Can you put up some pics of the lights during the day? Interested to see them in daylight! Also any hints or tips to some wanting to get/install these? I'm not half as mechanically inclined as you are!
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 77
From: Orlando, FL
Sure, np. I should mention that the brightness of the light will be impacted by the red lense... you will loose some of the brightness that the light provides... but they are just so frigging bright that it might not be an issue.
On the install... I can snap a few photos. But if you can change a bulb, you can install these. You unscrew the bulb, screw in the new ones. Twist the cables a little so they coil under the LED cluster and then you install the cover.
For the load stabilizer I will snap a few photos. You will disconnect the plug under your seat . The one that goes to the rear lights, easy to identify once you see the shape. Unplug stock, plug new one inline...
The most involved part of the install is the battery cable install... HD could have done us all a favor by giving us 1" or 2" of additional negative cable in the battery ... sob!@!... anyway... pull out the battery, route the negative and positive cable from the load stabilizer, install black (negative) cable, and positive (red) cables... find a home for the blue stabilizer block (I stashed it in the space in front of the battery)... options for this will depend on the bike and seat type that you have. I did not have the space under the seat, so on the side it went.
I will snap a few photos later today and update the post with them to make it easier to understand...
You will do fine doing the install. Don't worry.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Orlando, FL
Black Rocker Covers Installed
So I took a few days off from work to spend with family visiting... today they wanted to go shopping, and knowing how much I like to do that... I decided to stay home and swap rocker covers for the black units I had.
I removed the tank following this thread. Excellent videos.
Removing EFI fuel tank (How-To Video)
With that, tank is off!
The rest was removing the plastic covers, undoing the plugs, everything needed to get the necessary space to lift the covers and replace them.
There... front is clear and ready to go:
Front cover removed
Reading the manual just in case...
New gaskets in place, cover in place, hand tighten the bolts, used a hex wrench to take then in enough to start using the torque wrench. Started with 50 inch-lbs, then 75, 100, 125... books says 120-165... no way I could have done more than 125 on these... I hope that the book hand a torque range and not asking me to take them to 165... I am afraid they would break if I do...
Front done
On the rear, there was a suggestion to wrap a towel around the frame to avoid scratching the new one. I had plastic from the new covers, wrapped that around with some tape... rinse and repeat... only thing with the back is sliding the sensor wire through the gaskets and then through the cover... but it was easy. As I was putting down the cover I kept looking to make sure the gaskets were in place and had not lifted...
rinse and repeat... torqued down to 125 inch-lbs... in increments...
I removed the tank following this thread. Excellent videos.
Removing EFI fuel tank (How-To Video)
With that, tank is off!
The rest was removing the plastic covers, undoing the plugs, everything needed to get the necessary space to lift the covers and replace them.
There... front is clear and ready to go:
Front cover removed
Reading the manual just in case...
New gaskets in place, cover in place, hand tighten the bolts, used a hex wrench to take then in enough to start using the torque wrench. Started with 50 inch-lbs, then 75, 100, 125... books says 120-165... no way I could have done more than 125 on these... I hope that the book hand a torque range and not asking me to take them to 165... I am afraid they would break if I do...
Front done
On the rear, there was a suggestion to wrap a towel around the frame to avoid scratching the new one. I had plastic from the new covers, wrapped that around with some tape... rinse and repeat... only thing with the back is sliding the sensor wire through the gaskets and then through the cover... but it was easy. As I was putting down the cover I kept looking to make sure the gaskets were in place and had not lifted...
rinse and repeat... torqued down to 125 inch-lbs... in increments...
Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 2,333
Likes: 77
From: Orlando, FL
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