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Anyone Run a Solid Rear Wheel?

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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 08:22 PM
  #21  
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My last bike had solid wheels front and rear. Never noticed any handling problems due to wind.

My current bike has a solid rear wheel and spoked front wheel. I don't notice any wind induced handling problems with it.

It just seems to me that having a solid rear wheel would cause much less wind induced problems than a set of hard saddlebags would??
 
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 09:13 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Cozz
I really like the idea of running a FB rear wheel with an Air Strike front that I just picked up locally. What years will bolt right on my 04 Ultra. My stock rear is 16 by 3.
Your touring bike uses 1" bearings, whereas the FB from that era, as a softail, used 3/4" bearings up to 2008, when they became 25mm. The bearing cups in the FB hubs will take the appropriate 1" ID bearings for your rear axle, however you may need to bore through the central hole of the hub to provide clearance for the 1" axle. I have an '02 Deuce wheel and had to do that. The hole between the bearing cups on softail wheels only provides clearance for their 3/4" OD axle. All other dimensions are fine.

So to adapt a FB wheel you will need to remove the stock bearings, bore the hub and install 1" bearings and central spacer, which goes between the two inner races. You should be able to use a FB wheel from 2000-2006.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 03:47 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Your touring bike uses 1" bearings, whereas the FB from that era, as a softail, used 3/4" bearings up to 2008, when they became 25mm. The bearing cups in the FB hubs will take the appropriate 1" ID bearings for your rear axle, however you may need to bore through the central hole of the hub to provide clearance for the 1" axle. I have an '02 Deuce wheel and had to do that. The hole between the bearing cups on softail wheels only provides clearance for their 3/4" OD axle. All other dimensions are fine.

So to adapt a FB wheel you will need to remove the stock bearings, bore the hub and install 1" bearings and central spacer, which goes between the two inner races. You should be able to use a FB wheel from 2000-2006.
That is exactly the information I was looking for.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 10:13 AM
  #24  
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So correct me if I'm wrong Graham. In order to replace my 16x3 05 rear 9 spoke cast wheel with a 16x3 Fat Boy rear wheel, I'll need HD pn43861-08A, the 1" bearing and spacer kit to replace the 3/4" bearings in the Fat Boy wheel. In addition I need to drill the Fat Boy hub out from 3/4 to 1 so the axle will pass through the wheel. Outside of that, the brake rotor and drive pulley will bolt on and I can reuse the wheel spacers. After much research this is the best advice I've found. What say you sir?
 
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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by just plain john
So correct me if I'm wrong Graham. In order to replace my 16x3 05 rear 9 spoke cast wheel with a 16x3 Fat Boy rear wheel, I'll need HD pn43861-08A, the 1" bearing and spacer kit to replace the 3/4" bearings in the Fat Boy wheel. In addition I need to drill the Fat Boy hub out from 3/4 to 1 so the axle will pass through the wheel. Outside of that, the brake rotor and drive pulley will bolt on and I can reuse the wheel spacers. After much research this is the best advice I've found. What say you sir?
John, in essence that's right. The bearing spacer in that kit supports the two inner races and also passes through the hub, so the hole you drill/bore will need to provide running clearance for the spacer tube. I didn't machine the hub myself, but AFAIK the hole is 1.25" dia. Regarding use of a softail wheel I have followed a well trodden path, there is plenty of similar stuff on doing it out there - I haven't invented this myself!
 
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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 12:50 PM
  #26  
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Great, thanks for replying
 
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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 02:10 PM
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Bought a Fat Boy in September of 89 (first year) and had an 03 Deuce.

No ill effects by side winds. Think your buddies are imagining it
 
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Old Oct 23, 2017 | 03:45 PM
  #28  
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The original poster has a 2014 Street Glide, no?

What 5" solid H-D wheels are there? (I'm not up to speed on more recent models).

RevTech do an all "Black RevPro" in a 16" x 5.00 or an 18" x 5.50.

But I'm not sure what the purpose of doing this is. Is it just a looks thing?

I suppose the good thing about going custom is, you could get back down to a sensible 16". Those wheels and rotors are light, which has its advantage. A 16" would give it a more burly look. I have no experience with which to compare the rides between one and the 18" or 19".

 

Last edited by Wodan; Oct 23, 2017 at 03:52 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2017 | 07:57 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by grbrown
John, in essence that's right. The bearing spacer in that kit supports the two inner races and also passes through the hub, so the hole you drill/bore will need to provide running clearance for the spacer tube. I didn't machine the hub myself, but AFAIK the hole is 1.25" dia. Regarding use of a softail wheel I have followed a well trodden path, there is plenty of similar stuff on doing it out there - I haven't invented this myself!
I found a set of Fatboy wheels on Craigslist that the guy wanted to sell as a set, and didn’t want to separate. A month later I tried again and now he says he’ll part them after all. The were removed from a new bike that had the wheels changed before it ever left the dealership. Can you confirm that the front wheel has the same size threads on both sides, and the rear has different sized threaded holes (different rotor and pulley bolts)?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2017 | 05:20 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by just plain john
I found a set of Fatboy wheels on Craigslist that the guy wanted to sell as a set, and didn’t want to separate. A month later I tried again and now he says he’ll part them after all. The were removed from a new bike that had the wheels changed before it ever left the dealership. Can you confirm that the front wheel has the same size threads on both sides, and the rear has different sized threaded holes (different rotor and pulley bolts)?
Hi John, that is the case. The rotor screws are one size, the pulley bolts are larger. You can confirm that on-line here.
 
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