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This little pony barely has 8k on her clock and the top nut and stud on front cyl is already really badly DEGRADE-ed. (tutorial mode…just in case Ur 1 a those that insists on saying deg-ra-dade-ed)
It’s looking very rustic flakey.
I called my local shop, and they agreed to check it out.
Just posting this to see what kind of preemptive strikes U all might be taking to make this serviceable in the future, if/when the time comes to remove it for some reason.
Maybe the shop will tell me ‘leave it alone until the time comes’, and they’ll address it then?
I do minor repairs but no way am i gonna ‘break it to fix what ain’t broken’.
But i do remember reading about an improved design for the flanges and i am curious about that. if not for now then down the road.
Last edited by GIRLYDAVIDSON883XL; Jun 19, 2026 at 09:53 AM.
Those high exhaust temps will affect the finish on the studs and nuts. That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with them, although some pics might help. If there are no exhaust leaks or signs of imminent failure just leave it along. I wouldn't mess with the stud but you can replace the nuts if it makes you feel better.
They make nuts for the exaust that completelty (more or less) cover the whole stud that would alleviate rust issues. I have a set somewhere. I'll see if I can find some pics.
I believe they are James Gasket #65324-83-N2 but check fitment.
This is the best pic I could find as I don't use them anymore. Not sure why I went back to the original style. I never had an issue with them, but notice they go to the end of the stud so none of it is exposed anymore.
Last edited by OCSpringer; Jun 19, 2026 at 02:18 PM.
There are stainless steel stud and screw kits available on eBay and Amazon, the end which screws into the head is 5/16-18 and the thread for the nut is 5/16-24 thread.
There are stainless steel stud and screw kits available on eBay and Amazon, the end which screws into the head is 5/16-18 and the thread for the nut is 5/16-24 thread.
This would make me nervous for 4 reasons. 1) AL and SS don't play nice together generally. 2) Stainless isn't as strong, and these studs have been known to break using the good stuff. 3) Ebay and Amazon quality issues. 4) Did I mention Ebay and Amazon quality issues.
Last edited by OCSpringer; Jun 19, 2026 at 08:48 PM.
This would make me nervous for 4 reasons. 1) AL and SS don't play nice together generally. 2) Stainless isn't as strong, and these studs have been known to break using the good stuff. 3) Ebay and Amazon quality issues. 4) Did I mention Ebay and Amazon quality issues.
Yes, you mentioned Amazon and eBay quality issues,
Yes, stainless steel and Aluminium alloy can cold weld with each other known as "galling" if there is no barrier between the two different metals.
Another option is copper plated steel nuts, the copper plating creates a barrier between steel studs and nuts.
If there are no exhaust leaks or signs of imminent failure just leave it along. I wouldn't mess with the stud but you can replace the nuts if it makes you feel better.
I agree - sometimes prevention is worth the cure but in this case i am overthinking. Not gonna touch it.
Itz a wonderful little bike and she runs great and no, nothing leaking or breached at the cyl.
If there is ever an issue with the exhaust i will let a tech deal with it.
My partner's Sportster has covered 57,000 miles in all kinds of weather. After I have done some exhaust work and gone to the trouble of fitting new nuts it doesn't take long for them to look very old and rusty. The studs are the originals. I give them a wire brushing before putting the nuts on.
You just need to be careful undoing them. A good penetrating oil will aid considerably.
Do not be tempted to crank them real tight. The spec is only 10 ft-lbs but do check them after a few rides as the ones here tend to loosen just a little until they settle back in again.
I dread to think the trouble I might have with my bike as its done 52,000 miles and the headers have not been touched in 9 years.
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Today at 07:00 AM.
I sourced a 97 883 motor that sat in an avacado grove on a cinder block for God knows how long and the exhaust studs were very rusted but cleaned right up with a wire brush and have been fine. Hammer didn't even replace them when the heads were rebuilt. Rust is a protective coating. It's not like these are sitting in the ocean corroding away. They will be fine.
When I tighten the nuts on the exhaust I always use a 1/4" drive rachet. There is no good way to get a reliable torque reading on these so with a small rachet you will probably break the rachet before the stud. Never had a leak and I have had the top end apart countless times.
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Exhaust stud and nut, ‘17 Sportster 883
