29k so far.

 

I hear ya. If it infact is too tight id go manual but if it is still correct tension dont fix what aint broken.

 

Primaries are a little noisy at idle (mine sounds bad with random roughness do to chain wear and different amounts of freeplay and the crude sliding surface as I describe below ) but not what you describe at high speed. If it was me. I would pull it a little further down. From my experience with the auto adjuster, at the tightest position, I have seen 3/8 with just taking slack out and a total of 5/8 when pushing hard enough to collapse the lower two small springs in the tensioner. That is what makes them quite and fool people into making them think they are too tight is they miss that extra 1/4 of the springs. You can see one of the short springs in the attachment in the upper left small block. However, if you had a lot of uneven chain wear and runout, they could get too tight I guess by jumping at the loosest point that you see as you check chain tension by rotating to different position. So yours is OK at 6/8 (3/4). I would pull comp and clutch and check that large ball bearing in the clutch hub. You can fill it and see the bearings and race from the back side. Then you can peer in and see the inner primary bearing (with out pulling inner primary cover) and race by rotating input shaft. Then I would drop rear wheel down and forward to pull the belt forward off the main drive pulley. In this way, you can turn the input shaft by hand and shift up thru each gear and get an idea of how the bearings fill. It should be free and smooth in all gears. Not full proof but if something is really torn up, you can tell. Also, make sure the serration on your alternator rotor with the magnets is not sheared off and the bearings area of the compensator is not all gaulded up. A little gaulding is OK . (lets the oil get in there..just make sure you still have 50% of smooth bearing surface left) The noise you hear could just be the rough unmachined area that is simply just a casting that Harley uses to slide as the compensator works. Crude and a little noisey.

 

My only concern is when I'm from 4200 to 4400 rpm when it sounds really bad - the rest of the noise is probably just from being a Harley and running synthetic now.
I'm going to put it back together and ruin it for the rest of this year and see how it does. If it gets worse than I'll do the above because it sounds like a great way to check the bearings thanks!

Do you think it would be a good idea to add a screaming eagle heavy clutch spring?

 

Not sure if you ask me this..but I not much on high performance. Sure it would not hurt if your wrist is up to it in traffic. At 40K or so when I was into my primary, I could not measure the wear on my fiber and friction disks with an outside micrometer because the wear was so small. (less than .0005) The small slip when pulling out and shifting is under lubrication and then it locks up on a harley clutch. I seldom get to 4K and have never hit the rev limiter. Sure, they will take it for a while but don't expect 100K out of it doing it. I am also old school with the fluids. If a box has no filter, you really do not need a high detergent motor oil designed to keep the particles in suspension for an oil filter. You would be much better off with a straight weight non detergent gear oil like Formula + in the primary and transmission (especially for that large inner primary bearing and that huge ball bearing in the clutch hub). Those magnets are there to be a indicator for bearing failure, not protection. Sorry if I just made your thread into a oil thread.

 

Well I started the bike with the primary off and the clutch has a wobble to it and a slight noise. So the flywheel and clutch pack is wobbling. May be the bearing going out

I did readjust the clutch and add mobile one this time
Went for a ride and I can't hear much at normal operation cruzing around town under 3500rpm but it still makes that weird noise at 4200 rpm and goes away I never ride it that Hard so I think I'll stay away from higher rpms and see how it does

I'm thinking the clutch bearing is a little loose but the bike is working fine so that may just be normal? But not too many people are dumb enough to run it with the cover off while staring at the clutch.

 

Yea seen a lot of clutches that wobble. Don't think thats your issue. Your call but could just change all the seals and bearings.

 

Went riding around for a couple hours and adjusting the clutch again and switching to mobile one really made a difference it's so much smoother and quieter

Idk why I even tried anything but mobile one because anything I put it in runs better

 

I ran M1 for 100k and thought it performed the best. Now I'm running a Bandit clutch and have to run Spectro 80 gear oil and only 17oz. Not sure how long my comp will last.

 

Defo not the IPB then, which is good news.