Plenty of room for a Vise Grip, two minute job. Replace with all new hardware, chrome or stainless, your choice. Good Luck.

 

If you can turn it slightly clockwise it's not bound up with loctite, it should come out. I have had luck using a drill bit of similar size or slightly larger. Tap it in, chuck it in the drill and then slowly run the drill in reverse.

 

I can't stand button head bolts for this reason. If they strip it's very difficult to get any type of plier/vice grip to bite and hold. I never had luck trying a larger torx bit and I wasn't going to ruin a good chisel to cut a deep enough groove in a stainless steel bolt.

I ended up using a hacksaw to cut a small groove in it. A small cutting wheel will work also. The groove was too narrow for any flat blade screwdriver so I used a firm putty knife and backed the bolt out.

After my first stripped button head bolt I started replacing ALL button head bolts with chrome socket head allen bolts. After that I never had any difficulty removing bolts for any reason.

There are no button head bolts on my bike any longer, thank you.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I ran to Lowes and got some good vice grips, a new t45, a larger t50 and the Irwin bolt grip.

Wish me luck!

I did already get some new bolts to use. Of course I got the buttonhead ones, but in allen. I probably should look for something better.

Again, appreciate all the advice. I will let you guys know how it turns out tonight. - Hopefully it -- turns out---

 

Good luck brother...

 

Seems like you're getting lots of good advice on getting the thing off.

What I am not so sure about is the sense of eagerness to have you replace the bolts with "something else". To answer your suspicion about what the lines on your button head bolts are; they serve to indicate that it is either a Grade 5 (indicated by three lines on the head) or Grade 8 (indicated by 5 lines on the head). Bolts with these markings are made of much stronger metal than standard hardware. Looking at the picture, I suspect that the bolt you are trying to remove is a Grade 8. If it goes to the fender struts consider this; The fender is intended to hold either a passenger or cargo or both. The ONLY thing holding your fender to the rest of the motorcycle is these bolts. If you go out and buy something pretty or made of stainless, you risk replacing these strong, expensive bolts with something that might not have the strength that you need for such an application. If you do replace them, make sure that whatever you get is of equal grade.

Honestly, I think it is premature to suggest that you run out and replace all your hardware. I have had my Softail since brand new in 2008 and after all the work I have done to it (you can look up some of my threads to see how I have completely torn my scoot down and built it back up a couple of times now) I have yet to strip a stock bolt.

I say get this one off and get one of the same to replace it. Get a torx bit that fits properly. That seems obvious but I have found that depending on the maker of a tool, sizes can vary. Even if it's by very small fractions, that can make all the difference. Finally, make sure that when you reinstall any hardware that you use the correct grade of Loctite and that you torque the bolts to the proper spec. I am pretty confident that if you follow these guidelines you too can avoid the possibility of having this issue again and can avoid the unnecessary expense of replacing your stock hardware.

Good luck!

Skeez

 

I've seen a lot of 1/4-20 torx buttonheads ruined because someone tried to remove them with a T25 bit. Those screws take a size T27. Problem is, most cheap Torx bit sets don't include a T27. A T25 will go in, but it's too loose and will strip the head out.

 

Skeez, I don't know if your reply was directed at me because I did change as many button head bolts as I could with socket head allen bolts. Nonetheless, I will clarify why I did it. It worked for me.

The reasons I replaced the bolts are two fold:
1. I find the potential to strip a torx bolt easier than an allen bolt. I just don't like torx. I prefer allen heads. YMMV. We all know when a bolt strips it's an unnecessary pain in the ***.
2. I did strip a button head bolt in the past and it was more difficult than it needed to be to remove. I couldn't get a vice grip to bite the head. It kept slipping off. I tried larger torx bits, easy outs, etc. I didn't want to go through it a second time. So, if one strips now there is no problem getting a vice grip around it to back it out.

I do want to reiterate what you pointed out that it is important to replace the bolt with the same grade steel. I have done that.

I get my bolts from Allen's Fasteners. They have any bolt you would need. Here is an example of a bolt I used to replace a button head. Notice they specify the grade of steel.

 

If you have a dremel, cutting a slot into the screw head with a dremel then using a flat head screwdriver works

 

Just an update. I got the bolt off with a pair of vice grips with very minimal damage. I did slip once and left a tiny scratch on the fender rail. I can live with that.

Just to reiterate, this is the 3rd bolt down the rail. I actually replaced the first 2 on each side with the Harley Davidson Dock Hardware. I hope they didn't sell me low-grade bolts.

The one I removed is an inch long. I did just throw a 'regular' bolt, with the allen head in that one, but considering Skeez's advice, I will be purchasing some grade 8 bolts.

It got late last night and I didn't want to skimp on anything, so I simply put it all back together and will be going back over it with blue locktite and correctly torquing the bolts today or tomorrow.

Thanks everyone for all of the input! I was seriously stressed the other day when I couldn't get the bolt out.