Hello Team:

How many miles before I need to rebuild the engine? (2011 Softail Fatboy). I like to push the engine and normally up-shift above 3500RPM's. I do change the oil for the engine, transmission and primary every 3000 miles.

Thank you very much.

 

There really isnt a typical time. You’ll know when its time. Pushing the engine doesnt really shorten its life, unless you are abusing it. You’ll likely get bored and want some power upgrade longgg before it needs anything.

 

Most folks will tell you, 100k, if maintained properly.

 

My parts managers 02 Heritage has 120K+ on it...still going strong!

 

I'm getting ready to pull my 2011 96" with just over 96K on it. It's down on compression and using a little oil. I'm handing it over to Kirby at Vee Twin for a "mild/reliable/touring" 107".

 

I have a 2010 Softail Custom. Bought it preowned in July 2015 with 19450 miles on it. I've had the trans rebuilt already, and NOT by a HD dealer. However, the shop I took it to was HD qualified, so between the extended warranty, and insurance, I have a new transmission, clutch, ring bearings, etc. However, I have noticed that it is sometimes difficult to shift up out of 1st and into 2nd. Unless, 1. I let the bike warm up for a full 5min before taking off, or 2. Upon initial take off in first gear, I have to apply a lot of throttle, to get the 1st gear to that point where the engine revs and end of gear ratio is reached it's maximum, then wait a second as the engine rev begins to lessen, before the shift into 2nd gear is easy. It's almost as if this trans is either not a synchro mesh, or I'm not used to taking off under hard throttle. Sometimes, it will shift under "normal" throttle response, as if it doesn't matter what speed the clutch is spinning. very weird. I have adjusted the clutch cable, "handle squeeze" to HD specs, and still get a "pulling" sensation while in first gear, clutch handle depressed, as if the clutch is not fully released. What is going on? Any ideas or tech tips greatly appreciated.
Thank you.

 

Sounds like you just need to adjust the clutch inside the primary at the adjuster screw. Do a search on clutch adjustment and you will have your solution.

 

I have done that to no avail.

 

My 06 only had 58K when it got rebuilt and I changed my oil every 2.5K and 5K on everything else. It was still going strong at 97K when I traded for the CVO SG. I would be surprised to get 60K out of the 114 M8 but we will see.

 

You pulling in the clutch and the bike creeping forward seems to me like its not adjusted correctly inside the derby cover. I had this issue as well. Hard to shift at low RPMs and bike creeping forward with clutch handle pulled. I found that when I adjusted at the screw that I needed to turn the screw clockwise to where it stopped with light finger pressure, and not when it felt like the screw just engaged and was still very loose. Then I backed out 3/4 turn and tightened the locknut.