Today while riding I noticed my speedometer was not working (the needle was on 0), my turn signal indicators below the speedometer would not blink, and the neutral light would not come on. After some more driving to get to my destination I noticed all would start working again and seemed to start working again when I would apply the brakes. When I got home I checked connections to the speedo and all looked good. Went out again and the same symptoms occurred. I was able to pull up the diagnostic codes and indeed it showed diagnostics for the ABS (C0563), BCM (B2272), and SPEDO (B2272). All these codes indicate high voltage to ABS, BCM, and SPEDO. My guess is that I have a voltage regulator problem. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow to get it checked out.

Also, when the speedo was failed, the actual turn signals worked front and back, the brake light worked, and the front headlights worked. And even though the speedo needle was sitting at 0, the RPM indicator and odometer still functioned.

Another note, the entire system would always work normally when engine first started and would eventually fail once I started moving.

This is on a 2018 Heritage. I'll report back the diagnosis/fix.

 

Update: The problem was indeed the voltage regulator. The VR part number for 2018 Heritage is 74700031. After removal, the bad VR showed visible case damage on the underside.




Here's some more info:

Original VR
Battery voltage engine OFF: 13.1 volts
Battery voltage engine ON: 15.3 volts (voltage would occasionally rise to approx 17.0 volts)

15.3 volts is high but does not cause the over voltage diag codes. Over 16 volts will cause the diag codes and cause speedo to stop working. After checking that all grounds were secure, measured resistance from ground lugs to the battery and the frame, it again seemed obvious that the problem was the VR.

New VR:
Battery voltage engine OFF: 13.1 volts
Battery voltage engine ON: 14.1 volts








Unfortunately, there's a familiar story I need to add to this. I suspected the voltage regulator all along, and told the dealer that's probably the issue. They held the bike for 5 days before they looked at it. Along the way they realized I bought the bike from another dealer and then blamed the problem on a bad battery that the original dealer had installed prior to selling me the bike (this was news to me). They said for warranty coverage I should take it to the original dealer. I pushed back on this stating I felt I was getting the run around on this technicality and that the battery was most likely not the problem anyway. So, they did change the battery, and the faults cleared, and I was able to ride the bike back home, only to have it fail again before I got home (diag code reappeared on the BCM). So rather than deal anymore with dealer, and knowing they didn't have a VR in stock, and it was 7-10 days lead time, i went to another dealer that had a VR and just bought and replaced it myself. I don't mind doing the work, actually enjoy it, but not too happy I paid $150 for a part that should be covered under warranty but dealer had no interest in properly diagnosing. I could have bitched and waited 2 more weeks before getting it fixed but truly did not seem worth the hassle. I will post this in the bad dealers section but truthfully I think this is pretty common. Too often dealers have little interest in fixing problems like this. Sure they'll install your pipes (bought from them), do your stage III (bought from them), re-torque bolts, change oil, etc, as long as you're spending the bucks. Pretty disappointing.

 

Absolutely identical problem occured yesterday on my FLHCS 2018.
Taking it to the dealer tomorrow to get it checked out.

 

Hopefully they have the V/R in stock. If they do its a 10 minute fix.

 

I've had the exact same symptoms as above. I've had the regulator replaced four times now, with the the stator being replaced on the last time that the regulator was replaced.