Thank you for the suggestion.
I considered the possibility that I reversed the connection harness but after trying the harness in one position, reversing the harness and trying it again, the result was the same: the lights remain on and can not be shut off.

 

Did you use a "dielectric grease" on the contacts.....??

True "dielectric grease" is silicone based and doesn't conduct electricity... Many other greases have additives that will conduct electricity. There are some greases, like "846 Carbon Conductive Grease", that are designed to improve the conductivity of some electrical contacts..

If you used the wrong grease, it may be causing the all switch pins to be connected, and act as if always on...

If you used a proper dielectric grease, then there is a good chance the switch itself is faulty...

Did you take the actual switch apart? Or did you just clean the visible contacts and grease them? Sounds like you just cleaned the contacts, but at this point, what have you got to lose in taking it apart and checking it out...?

Many that have taken the switch apart, found issues with the internal contacts, and were able to save the switch. Some needed a new switch...

Keep us posted... but sounds like you are on the right track...

 

I just cleaned the male pins of the contacts: I did not clean the connector slots. The dielectric grease that I used is silicon based and promotes itself as for electrical connectors ... but, from what you say, the grease I used actually may be causing the problems. Prior to applying the dielectric grease, the switch was working fine; after the grease, the light problem arose.
I'll remove the grease and see if I still have the problem with the lights. If I have the continuing problem with the lights, I'll begin taking the switch apart and check the contacts while keeping a new switch option open.

 

If you have never taken the switch apart before be very careful of the small contacts and springs that are inside and like to jump out. Take pictures as you go.

 

Thank you for the insight into the switch and the suggestions re., caution and taking pictures.
Sometimes I feel like a professional photographer ... taking pix after pix as I work on my Springer.

 

The saga continues.

I removed the ignition switch connector, cleaned the pins and reinstalled the connector. With power to the bike, the lights came on with the ignition switch in the "Off" position. I then disconnected the ignition switch connector thus removing all electrical power from the ignition switch. Once again, with power to the bike, the lights came on even with the ignition switch receiving no electrical power.

How do the lights receive electrical power if the ignition switch is disconnected from the system, e.g., receives no electrical power, but the rest of the bike receives electrical power?
Is it possible that the High/Low beam switch can provide electrical power to the lights even with the ignition switch receiving no electrical power?

 

Did you try removing the wires along with the connectors from the harness? Clean them up and make sure that they snap back in place. I use a very tiny screw driver to release the clip on the connector to release it inside the harness from the opposite side of the wire.

 

I have not tried to remove the wires leading into the connector because with the connector disconnected from the ignition switch there is no electrical power going to the switch. But, in this situation, the lights remain on when the battery is connected.
I'll give you suggestion a try, keeping my fingers crossed.

 

This issue is a puzzle to be sure....

Let me see if I got this right...

You cleaned the switch, connected the switch, connected the battery, and the lights came on with the switch in "off"...?

You then disconnected the battery, disconnected the switch, reconnected the battery and the lights came on again...?

Here's a pic from when I cleaned out my ignition switch a couple months ago (I too take copious pics when doing a job for the first time). With the ign switch disconnected as in the pic, you get the lights on with the battery connected?



Was it just the lights, or was it like you had the ignition switch to the ignition position?

If it was just the lights, then the problem is in the light circuit. Try pulling the lights fuse and see if they go out.

If it was like having the ignition switch moved to ON... then something in the female connector to the ignition switch is causing the leads to make contact like the switch was ON. When you cleaned the pins on the ignition switch, did you also clean out the female connector to those pins? Get rid of all grease in that connector, look for debris too. Once you're confident that connector is clean, try it again..

 

For sure this is a puzzle.
Because I'll be out of town for a couple of days, I'll work on cleaning out the female connector, try pulling the light fuse and the other suggestions, recleaning the pins and any other suggestions anyone has to offer; I'll work these recommendations on Saturday and give feedback as well as more detailed answers to your questions.

In the interim, has anyone used a recommended a good cleaner to remove the grease from the pins and female connector, and, looking at the female connector? I'm also a little concerned not having removed the pins from the female connector. Do the pins snap down (using a small screw driver)?

Thanks, again, to all suggestions and ideas. I know I'll get there from here .....................