Springer Quits While Riding
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 19
Likes: 6
From: Olympia, WA
Springer Quits While Riding
I have a 2007 Heritage Springer with around 53,000 miles. Occasionally, while riding, especially on a hot day, the bike completely shuts down: no engine power, no throttle response and no electrical power. After safely stopping, I will recycle the ignition and on/off switches and the bike will start and run just as if nothing happened. The battery checks good and is kept on a Battery Tender when I'm not riding the ECM has been replaced; all circuit breakers are secure and show no signs of wear; looking at the wiring harnesses and any exposed wires shows no wearing that would possibly cause a short. Fault codes indicate high readings for both the front and rear O2 sensors; these are the only fault codes.
Because I can recycle the two switches and the bike will run normally (until the next time it decides to quit), I feel the problem is an electrical problem rather than an O2 sensor problem. A fuel/fuel filter issue may be the cause but because I can start the bike after recycling the two switches, I am leaning toward an electrical problem.
Has anyone experienced similar problems and if so, what were the cause(s) and fixes?
Because I can recycle the two switches and the bike will run normally (until the next time it decides to quit), I feel the problem is an electrical problem rather than an O2 sensor problem. A fuel/fuel filter issue may be the cause but because I can start the bike after recycling the two switches, I am leaning toward an electrical problem.
Has anyone experienced similar problems and if so, what were the cause(s) and fixes?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,143
Likes: 11,214
From: San Diego, CA
I have a 2007 Heritage Springer with around 53,000 miles. Occasionally, while riding, especially on a hot day, the bike completely shuts down: no engine power, no throttle response and no electrical power. After safely stopping, I will recycle the ignition and on/off switches and the bike will start and run just as if nothing happened. The battery checks good and is kept on a Battery Tender when I'm not riding the ECM has been replaced; all circuit breakers are secure and show no signs of wear; looking at the wiring harnesses and any exposed wires shows no wearing that would possibly cause a short. Fault codes indicate high readings for both the front and rear O2 sensors; these are the only fault codes.
Because I can recycle the two switches and the bike will run normally (until the next time it decides to quit), I feel the problem is an electrical problem rather than an O2 sensor problem. A fuel/fuel filter issue may be the cause but because I can start the bike after recycling the two switches, I am leaning toward an electrical problem.
Has anyone experienced similar problems and if so, what were the cause(s) and fixes?
Because I can recycle the two switches and the bike will run normally (until the next time it decides to quit), I feel the problem is an electrical problem rather than an O2 sensor problem. A fuel/fuel filter issue may be the cause but because I can start the bike after recycling the two switches, I am leaning toward an electrical problem.
Has anyone experienced similar problems and if so, what were the cause(s) and fixes?
There have been several reports lately, of the tank console ignition switches having problems. It seems most reports are from the early twin cams, as they age....
Many resolve the issue by disassembling the ignition switch and cleaning the internal contacts.. A few have had to buy a new switch.
Since your problem seems to clear up with the cycling of the switches, that could be a good place to start...
You may be able to find some of the threads by doing a search on this forum.
Are the fault codes for the O2 sensors historic codes or active codes? If you clear them do they immediately return?
If so, there is an active issue in that area. It may be a symptom of your power failure, but I don't see how it would cause a complete power failure. If you get the sudden power failure fixed, and still get those codes, you will need to investigate them as a secondary issue...
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 19
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From: Olympia, WA
Checked the ignition switch and the switch connectors. The three pins were greasy from some form of lubricant. Are the three pins suppose to be lubricated? If the pins should be lubricated, is dielectric grease the best form of grease to use?
Re. the O2 sensors: after clearing the codes and running the engine, the codes reappear. I'll work on these sensors as a possible causal factor if the ignition switch is ruled out.
Re. the O2 sensors: after clearing the codes and running the engine, the codes reappear. I'll work on these sensors as a possible causal factor if the ignition switch is ruled out.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,143
Likes: 11,214
From: San Diego, CA
Checked the ignition switch and the switch connectors. The three pins were greasy from some form of lubricant. Are the three pins suppose to be lubricated? If the pins should be lubricated, is dielectric grease the best form of grease to use?
Re. the O2 sensors: after clearing the codes and running the engine, the codes reappear. I'll work on these sensors as a possible causal factor if the ignition switch is ruled out.
Re. the O2 sensors: after clearing the codes and running the engine, the codes reappear. I'll work on these sensors as a possible causal factor if the ignition switch is ruled out.
I use dielectric grease on my connections. If the connections are clean and tight, the grease doesn't affect conductivity, but protects the contacts from water and corrosion...
If the codes keep returning, you have an issue with the O2 sensors but I can't see how that shuts down all electrical power...
You say you replaced the ECM.... did you put in the proper tune...?? Any engine mods on your bike or is it OEM...?
Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 19
Likes: 6
From: Olympia, WA
I use dielectric grease on my connections. If the connections are clean and tight, the grease doesn't affect conductivity, but protects the contacts from water and corrosion...
If the codes keep returning, you have an issue with the O2 sensors but I can't see how that shuts down all electrical power...
You say you replaced the ECM.... did you put in the proper tune...?? Any engine mods on your bike or is it OEM...?
If the codes keep returning, you have an issue with the O2 sensors but I can't see how that shuts down all electrical power...
You say you replaced the ECM.... did you put in the proper tune...?? Any engine mods on your bike or is it OEM...?
I really believe the problem resides with the electrical system.
Thank you for your feedback re. the dielectric for/on your connectors. This will be my next step.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 6,073
Likes: 356
From: Illinois
I just had a problem with my bike running like crap when the engine got hot in hot weather. It was very difficult to keep running but did not lose electrical power. I put a new engine temperature sensor on it and solved the problem. I wasn't getting any codes.
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Road Master
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,114
Likes: 28
From: Kokomo, IN
On my 2000 Fatboy, it would shut off randomly and I cycled the ignition switch to get it going again. The wiring on my bike is pretty basic and the only circuit that would shut it down like that was the Bank Angle Sensor.
On my bike, the Bank Angle sensor is separate from the turn signal module. The wire to the bank angle was broken internally and fried the BAS.
Not sure if they have had issues with the TSSM and Bank Angle on the later models. I know it was not uncommon on the earlier ones.
Good luck.
On my bike, the Bank Angle sensor is separate from the turn signal module. The wire to the bank angle was broken internally and fried the BAS.
Not sure if they have had issues with the TSSM and Bank Angle on the later models. I know it was not uncommon on the earlier ones.
Good luck.
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Thread Starter
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Novice
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 19
Likes: 6
From: Olympia, WA
First, thank to everyone who responded and participated in this thread. A brief update:
I checked the battery using a multimeter: the battery checked great in the cold, cranking and running position.
I then disconnected both terminals at the battery.
I checked the three pins in the ignition switch; cleaned the 3 pins and applied some dielectric grease to each pin. I then reinstalled the connector.
Upon reinstalling the battery, when I connected the negative lead to the negative terminal, the lights illuminated. The lights stay "ON" no matter what position the ignition switch, even in the "Off" position. The only way I can turn off the lights is by disconnecting the negative cable to the negative terminal at the battery.
I wonder if somehow the ignition switch is faulty: feedback welcomed with gratitude.
I checked the battery using a multimeter: the battery checked great in the cold, cranking and running position.
I then disconnected both terminals at the battery.
I checked the three pins in the ignition switch; cleaned the 3 pins and applied some dielectric grease to each pin. I then reinstalled the connector.
Upon reinstalling the battery, when I connected the negative lead to the negative terminal, the lights illuminated. The lights stay "ON" no matter what position the ignition switch, even in the "Off" position. The only way I can turn off the lights is by disconnecting the negative cable to the negative terminal at the battery.
I wonder if somehow the ignition switch is faulty: feedback welcomed with gratitude.