2013 FLSTC with Serial # 1bwv (not sure what that means but makes a difference when buying parts.
66,000 miles had what I thought was valve train noise (turned out to be leaky exhaust gasket) if i only knew then what I know now.....

Different Bango bolts used on head breather (has S&S stealth something or other higher flow backplate)
New cam, cam plate, oil pump, bearings orings gaskets etc in cam chest.
New adjustable S&S pushrods (shouldve went quickie and the kit, far less headache), Feuling hydraulic lifters
ball honed cylinders, polished tops of pistons, new stock rings, all new gaskets all the way up, port and polish heads and intake. (left sensors in... feeling dumb but figured may be needed for flow table unsure)
Powervision PV2, FM supported, FM tune.


Did all work myself, first timer trying not to have to work with dealerships anymore. Be gentle lol.

Did heat cycles on rings went well, got up to road testing and first 2 , 3-5 mile rides went fairly smooth more rattle runs but nothinig mechanically loose. Next ride I ride out of town and jump on freeway to go thru more gears allowing more rpm diversity, all is going well and engine light and red code light go off and bike drops a cylinder and essentially dies on side of hwy... Lucky me I didnt put the bags on and take tools with me... A kbar and a cell phone are kinda useless. I did manage to get the air cover allen bolt out with my kbar. PV2 is telling me P0108 HIST map sensor failed high/open port. Bike will not run on more than 1 cylinder. Here is what I have done so far to try and correct this issue.

New o2 sensor front and rear (were dirty didn't like it ordered with MAP sensor)
New OEM map sensor got tired of waiting for parts to show, This is also where vin# came into play OEM map sensor PN# 32417-10 ( Dennis Kirk was wrong with the one they said fit and claim the other one that appears it should wont work) Ordered 1 they said wont work, as of this moment has not arrived)
New FM 4.9 injectors, stock injector o rings looked weak. bike should pull over 100hp with cam when done why not while I wait for MAP sensor to arrive.
New intake air sensor OEM HD.

Install all of it cleanly with throttle body off engine, plug in, use PV2 to check bike for codes 0, go thru dash HD codes clear all of those, load FM tune (pre injector swap) go to start bike, Will start roughly, runs on 1 jug, seems like the front because rear plug is wetter, pops up same code.
ys n
Im thinking maybe pinched wire, or something. Have spark tested coil with inline spark tester..?? basically goes on plug and attaches to plug wire that goes to coil, it flashes. I cleary have fuel buy the amount of it coming out of the exhaust when i do allow it to run for a few seconds, the wet plug and the smell of unburnt fuel. I dont know how I could lose compression on a bike that had it up until map sensor went out. IAC Sensor, TPS, and Engine temp are only ones not changed yet and TPS is fine and one of the displays on my PV2 HUD. When MAP sensor originally went down PV2 recognized the misfire and logged a code, it is not logging or noticing it.

A few things I do know, Timing is correct on cams, Lash on pushrods are set to hydraulic lifters specs while both pistons on TDC of compression stroke.

Sorry for the read, rather be thorough then have to answer more questions.

 

Forgive me, as I don't know you at all, or your experience/knowledge level, but you did a lot of work. Obviously something you touched is causing your issues(s), and you touched many things...

I am assuming you have some knowledge and skill based on the mods you have done yourself yourself (ie; cylinder honing, head porting, etc). I am also assuming you have a factory service manual and are doing things like head torquing by the book....

Several questions, popped into my head:

What do you mean by "rides went fairly smooth more rattle runs but nothinig mechanically loose. "...??
Are you saying it was rattling the whole time it was running? What do you mean by rattling?

If nothing was "loose"...
What did you physically check to find the "rattling"...?? Did it "rattle" during heat cycles...? Are you sure the lifters pumped up, and you had good oil pressure before your first ride...?

You jumped on the freeway with a "rattling " engine then "dropped a cylinder"...??
Do you mean it just quit firing...? Or did it lose compression..?

You mentioned, "A few things I do know, Timing is correct on cams, Lash on pushrods are set to hydraulic lifters specs while both pistons on TDC of compression stroke."
Did you physically check/verify the cam chest for issues, like cam timing? What did you set the preload on the lifters at? After setting the preload on the base circle, did you wait until lifters bled down to rotate engine...?


IMHO...

Instead of throwing parts at it because they looked dirty.... It's time for a thorough diagnostic approach, to see what part(s) of your rebuild didn't take....

Start at the beginning with fuel, compression, and air...

If I am understanding you correctly, you have verified spark and fuel at both cylinders...?
Doesn't mean you don't have issues with tune/sensors/fuel delivery... but you can get back to that.

Next would be a compression test, followed by a leak down test, and finally followed by a check of the intake seals..

Once all that is verified to be good, ensure proper oil flow/pressure... a simple twisted o-ring on the oil pump scavenging intake can cause all sorts of oil pressure/flow issues...

After checking the basics, and once the integrity of all your mods/changes has been confirmed .... Then I would follow the codes, check fuel delivery issues, and inspect sensor/wiring issues... I would take the time to check any component for failure before replacing it...

Be systematic, be thorough, and be persistent... you'll get it squared away...

Good luck and let us know what you find...

Good luck

 

I will try to answer the best I can, my answers are the underlined text

What do you mean by "rides went fairly smoothmore rattle runs but nothing mechanically loose."...??
Are you saying it was rattling the whole time it was running? What do you mean by rattling?

By rattle run I mean nothing was physically rattling but when you do something this large something is bound to crack free or vibrate free, I put a new belt on that stretched, I didnt get foot boards mounted completely tight in my eagerness, yes everything motor wise was torqued per book specs.

If nothing was "loose"...
What did you physically check to find the "rattling"...?? Did it "rattle" during heat cycles...? Are you sure the lifters pumped up, and you had good oil pressure before your first ride...?

I prefilled lifters, cycled engine thru 10 seconds at a time while pumping oil on valves and rockers until oil pressure had pumped up thru pushrods, rockers and was visibly coming out. Also during first ring heat cycles rocker covers were left off and per the zippers instructions I pumped oil onto valves. Also have external oil pressure gauge and am steadily reading 50 psi.

You jumped on the freeway with a "rattling " engine then "dropped a cylinder"...??
Do you mean it just quit firing...? Or did it lose compression..?

PV2 It stated it both cylinders quit firing, I have not checked compression, I will add that to the list today to check. There was not anymore rattling after first road heat cycle.

You mentioned, "A few things I do know, Timing is correct on cams, Lash on pushrods are set to hydraulic lifters specs while both pistons on TDC of compression stroke."

Did you physically check/verify the cam chest for issues, like cam timing?

Could chain driven cams jump a tooth? I triple checked all of the timing marks prior to installing and sealing cam chest. Unless these could jump I do not believe that would be an issue. If that is a possibility I have another cam chest gasket here and can open fairly quickly to verify.

What did you set the preload on the lifters at?

.100" lash per feuling instructions

After setting the preload on the base circle, did you wait until lifters bled down to rotate engine...?

Yes pushrods were able to be spun easily by fingers


I fully agree with the idea that it is time to stop throwing parts at it. I only tore into this because at 66k i wanted to freshen up the bike motor and get another 66k. I am backtracking all of my wire routing currently, I also noticed on some videos I watched this am that I may have inadvertently not aligned my intake properly based on the way I installed it and will be fully redoing that today also. I am open to many suggestions on what and where to check. I have a service manual and do try to follow that to a T, I am going to give the wiring routing, intake installation, and compression test a try before cracking the cam chest open. I have not performed a leak down test before but will dig into that also.

Thanks for taking time to read and responding. The bike was running great up until it popped that code on the hwy, no rattling or lugging. Although it had died twice at low rpm's now to think about it. Added heat cycle instructions which were followed directly.

 

Thanks for the additional info... as I suspected, you have the knowledge and skill to pull this off, I just didn't understand some of your terminology...

The fact remains, that something didn't go together correctly... and needs to be remedied.....

Because of the "rattling" comments that I didn't understand, I didn't realize it was running well, before your highway ride....

With that info, it would seem that the cam chest was properly assembled, and you answered my other questions which put several of my "fears" to rest...

One of my big fears was what you meant by "dropping a cylinder"... since you explained that meant the PV told you that, "both cylinders quit firing", I suspect at this point, the compression test (and leak down test) are probably not needed. They pertain to the integrity of the compression in the engine... that doesn't seem to be in doubt any longer.

I now know why you are focusing on the codes, wiring, and intake manifold... it seems that you have an electrical problem with the "both cylinders quit firing" revelation... basically a loss of spark...

While the intake manifold leaking could add to your issues, the loss of spark that caused "both cylinders quit firing", is the main focus..

Just make sure to really check the various power connections and connector pins...

The increased RPM, speed, and wind on the highway could cause a loose power/ground connection to show itself...

If any connector pins are tweaked, bent, or broken... they can lead to intermittent contact or total contact failure...

Sounds to me like you are on a good path... keep us posted...

 

Checked all wiring, did find a couple things that should have been routed the other way but no broken, chaffed, or bad looking wires. After all of that i went to fire and still was on 1 cylinder. Compression check showed front cylinder had 30 psi and rear had 130. thinking either broken ring or stuck valve, broken valve spring, etc. Gonna crack the rocker box cover first and see what i see. I did drain the oil and did not find it to be full of metal so I am not sure which way it has me leaning but at least I know now that although it said sensor its actually mechanical. One thing I didn't mention in the original post is that during the initial heat cycles and running of 10 second intervals it was only on 1 cylinder then due to the injector plug not being properly seated. And it was the front cylinder. This has me thinking broken ring since I believe the top ring is not only heated but cooled by the fuel. Also noticed my oil smelled excessively gassy, that also makes me think broken ring. But we will find out. At least these issues are something I can see rather than having to be told by a computer that this is my issue when it for the most part wasn't. Thanks for the info and encouragement, I'll keep plugging away and at least when its done I will know it was done by my hands.

 

Well, I guessed wrong thinking the compression check probably wasn't needed.... just reinforces to always check the basics... and to do the easy, free stuff first like spark, fuel, and compression....

If you have the ability to do a leak down test (special gauges needed), it should tell you whether it's ring(s) (air escaping from the crank case breathers) or valves (air out exhaust = exhaust valve / air out intake = intake valve)...

But if you don't have the gauges, no biggie, you know it's one of the two, and the head will need to come off whichever it is....

Sounds like you are certainly on the right trail now..... but I've said that before...

Keep us posted....

 

Well I've said it once and I will say it again. Learning is expensive. I put it all back together after compression issue semi resolved. With the low amount of time on the rings we used an old school trick to see if there was leak in the rings and there wasnt it just hadnt heated and swelled enough yet. I left the house and 6 miles in the oil light came on. I recently installed an external gauge an slowly watched it drop as I went back towards my house. At some point pressure had built up so much in the tank and it shot the dipstick out and sent hot oil all over my leg. I stopped, unblocked the supply line and headed back towards the house. being only 8 or 9 blocks. Frustrated and upset I decided i was going to see what the new setup had and sent her thru the gears. About 3/4 of a block from my house the oil return vent line blew the fitting where it attaches down near the crank case (TCB motor) . In the end after ripping her back down I had broken the front piston on the bottom of the back side of it and sent the little aluminum parts threw my crank, back into my oil pump and packed the line full of aluminum. The blockage of the oil supply is my own dumb mistake and a stupid one but learning is expensive. So .... Looking for a 96 or 103 Twin cam B motor lower end. I am sure if i created enough heat to break a piston the crank bearings and all sorts of other balancers and other parts didnt like the lack of oil either. Already have new pistons and cylinders to replace. Head P&P team said they will take back, and review for damage or marring free of charge. Learning is expensive and honestly I am not even that upset. Dying with $ is a waste of $. I'll chalk it up as a learning experience and another lesson of what not to allow to happen again. I believe with the metal going thru oil passages in the cases and the twin cam crank not being the most rigid build, along with the balancers this bottom end is better suited for someone that has more talent than I am wants to have a project.

 

Wow... that is a big failure... sorry it went bad for you...

Whenever I break something, after the initial "aw-crap!".... I look for the opportunities in the rebuild... That's the one good side affect of having "the sickness" and always wanting to tinker and make more power...

I don't know your budget or timeline, but you could call Dark Horse Crankworks and have them redo your bottom end... it would then be truly bullet proof...

Good luck with your rebuild and post up the final results...