Greetings,

Was riding last Friday and my bike died. I have a 2013 Switchback with V&H ProPipe, SE A/C and V&H FP3.

I had done a cam install (Andrews 57H) cam in July. Also replaced the lifters (S&S Hydraulic), pushrods (S&S Adjustables), had inadvertently disconnected the oil pump from the cam plate and screwed up the reinstall (what a mess, the gerotors shattered and wound up buying SE Highflow oil pump / cam plate), also changed out the rocker covers from polished aluminum to chrome (had stripped out the threads of one of the bolts holding the rocker support plate (fixed with Time-Sert thread insert) and wound up needing a new one ). Got everything back together and all was running fine for the last 200 miles or so. I had been applying the Auto Tune from the FP3 and things were smoothing out.

Went riding with my in-laws on Friday. We got caught in heavy stop and go traffic where the bike was heating up pretty good. We'd move 10-20 feet and then sit there for a minute or so. I would shut the bike off between moving those 10-20 feet because of the heat. We experienced 2 of those stop and go incidents and each was about 20 minutes or so within an hour. Finally we were free of the traffic. We headed to a local park (Harriman, NY). I told my nephew (he's on a Kawi Ninja 650 twin) once we hit the park, he and I would take off. When the moment came, we launched. We were flying at speeds I'd rather not say due to legalities and then, the valve chatter seemed to get a little louder and the bike started losing power. Pulled over on the side of the road and let it cool a little and then restarted. It would crank, but wouldn't catch. Had to have the bike towed home.

Prior to this, I was getting the error codes "P0132 Front Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich" and "P0152 Rear Oxygen Sensor High / Engine Rich". I had called V&H after I had completed the cam install and they said just to run AutoTune and it should work itself out. After the bike died on Friday, in the FP3, I'm now getting an error code of "P0108 MAP sensor failed high/open port", nothing else. Pulled the spark plugs out and rear one was very dark and almost looked like it had a film of oil on it. While the plugs were out, I connected the spark plug to the spark plug wire and started the bike.....there was no spark (is this normal...I've read the plugs need compression to spark).

I haven't opened up the cam area or the rockers yet. In doing some research on the "P0108 MAP sensor failed high/open port" error code , I'm wondering if the MAP sensor is fried. I can replace it ($133 at my local HD dealer), but I want to know why it failed. I have a trip coming up in 2 weeks and don't want to be stranded in Maine only to have the bike towed to NJ.

Thoughts?????

 

MAP high means the computer cannot read the sensor...so it may have become disconnected. Of course it could have simply failed too. I cannot think of anything offhand that would cause a sensor to fail. Failure is rare, but it can happen.

Before doing any high speed runs, you should really get your mixtures dialed in. If the computer says they're off in closed loop, then they very well may be off in full throttle open loop running...and could cause serious damage to pistons if it is a lean mixture at speed.

Plugs should spark at anytime. They don't care whether they are in compression or not. The lack of MAP signal may shut the ignition spark off, though. Wet and oily could be that...oil...or more likely it is unburned fuel that gives an oily appearance.

So...were it my bike...I'd check the MAP connections first. Replace the MAP second if a connection doesn't fix it, And finally NOT RIDE it hard until you fix the mixtures.

 

The Delphi and later 2001 up carbed bikes need compression on the rear cylinder to make spark.. Sounds like you need to do a compression test.

 

I had an increasing chatter noise right before I lost one cylinder. The intake pushrod adjustment loosened and shut down the valve.

As for shutting the bike off for a few seconds at a time, I would consider that with the engine running, you continue to circulate the oil that is part of the motor's cooling system.

 

Just came back from the garage. Took rocker covers off, lifted bike, put in 6th gear, pulled pushrod covers and rotated the wheel. All looks normal and the pushrod jam nuts are secure.

 

That's starting the hard way! Deal with the code for MAP first. Very little has to come off to check that out. I would have run a compression check before going to the trouble of popping the covers off. Compression would have told you what you found without having to remove so much to tell.

 

Good point! Forgot that the mid year bikes dropped the cam position sensor in favor of reading crank speed to indicate the time to fire.

 

How does one do a compression test? For what it's worth, I did pull the plugs and hit the starter button and there were blasts of air shooting through the plug holes....I'm assuming compression?

 

For the compression test; go to your friendly neighborhood auto parts store and get an compression tester that you can thread into your S/P hole. Disengage the ign system and crank it over several times. Pay attention to the step increases the needle reads and max compression. Then repeat the above a few times to get an average reading. Repeat procedure on other cyl. They might not be identical, but there shouldn't be a much of a discrepancy between the two.
As for the fouled plug, is it fouled w/ oil or gas? IF that plug is severely fouled it can potentially not spark. Try a new plug on that cyl. or swap plugs front to rear and see if the R cyl. is still dead.
Check for any loose nuts, bolts, or fittings where you could get a vacuum leak.

* I apologize now as all this is coming from a stronger automotive background then a HD background, but it is all the same precision guess work.

Search this forum and other forums for MAP sensor issues, I just skimmed them, but others MIGHT have had similar issues.
Good Luck