Hi Guys, I haven't posted in a while but I'm still kicking. I bought a 2009 Heritage Softail a while back as a second bike to my 16 Fatboy. It's pretty nice shape with 12K miles on her. I'm getting the metal slap or bang sound when she starts so I figure the compensator is to blame. I'm not wanting to go Man O' War or Baker, just wanting a good aftermarket one that won't break the bank. My question is, are there any good compensator kits I can get that I won't have to change the stator rotor? I kinda hate to have to get into having to pull the inner primary plus the thought of having to get to the starter bolts are a nightmare on a softail as I remember from years ago. I'd hate to think about grinding on the case to get the rotor off as well.

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks A Bunch!

 

Based on my experience, it depends on if you still have the OE rotor.

In my research, the OE rotor must be swapped out to H-D Rotor Assembly P/N 30041-08. Once this is done, more options are available.

I found the SE comp/rotor upgrade kit to be the most reasonable solution for me. I didn't really have the option of not going "all in" as my stator was smoked at 42K. I was not going to put the factory original comp back in.

I'm certain someone with more experience than me will chime in soon.



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I have done both.

I prefer to remove the inner primary. It's not really that hard, just takes a little time. For me, it actually took about the same time to pull the inner primary then to grind the primary housing around the bottom of the rotor. I was being very **** about grinding only what I needed and keeping the housing clean of grinding debris.

Pulling the primary housing was also less stressful, as I had never ground the housing before.

For me, I can't imagine the scenario where I'd ever grind the housing again.

Good luck with your decisions and your repair...

 

I, too, took off inner primary. I welded a T30 into a screwdriver extension and was able to remove starter bolts with out removing the oil tank.
I took the outer cover in to Harley dealer and had them glue the small splash diverter in. Was cheaper than buying the special glue they recommended.
5years ago and still no issues

 

Thanks guys, Yea, the more I've read, the SE Kit will probably be my best bet. Won't know till I get in there but I figure mine hasn't had anything done to it yet.
I like that idea of welding the T30 to the screwdriver extension.

Did most of you guys end up just installing the Belleville springs as normally or did you add an extra one somewhere? Many Thanks!

 

Save yourself a lot of wheel spinning and try a new battery first. If it really was the compensator, it would show up shifting also.

These long stroke 2 cylinders do all kinds of banging and odd noises starting from batteries that are low on cold cranking amperage do to being maintained on a maintenance charger too much to extend their lives.

Or bike sits a lot and battery is just weak from the small parasitic drain from modern electronics.

Just a thought because of what I have seen my old 2004 ever time the battery is near the end of its life. It kicks back, grinds if solenoid magnet falls pulling the starter drive gear out and starter bangs.

Bellville springs don't wear out since they are captured and flat is as far as they can be pushed. And that takes WOT clutchless shifts to do that.

Now the drive fingers can be rough and make the primary noisy at idle.

PS... if you do try a new battery, alway put a solid state maintenance charger on it like Harleys or Bell till green light shows. And then while cranking, note what voltage reading your get for future references. Usually around 9.7 or better for a stock motor and a battery with the recommended CCA.

It should never fall below 9.7. If it does, motor is going to kick and buck jump against comp or solenoid magnet can't hold starter gear in, or you just hear solenoid relay clicks.

 

I would suggest installing the SE Big Twin Compensator for your year/model as it comes from HD. This newest comp version is actually pretty good.

It's biggest problem is over time it may develop a rattle when in neutral, or get a little noisy at idle. Harley suggests that you check the spring pack pre-load and ad a shim or two. That will fix it for most people. If it persists, then you can look into another spring pack. It should take a bit of mileage to develop this issue, unless you are a pretty aggressive rider..


Joe Lyons (owns Powerhouse Cycle & Dyno, and is an excellent tuner/mechanic) shared this info on another forum years ago, about checking and shimming for proper comp spring preload.

 

Thanks for the good insight. I will for sure check my battery. That spring preload check and the spacers should be a big help. I noticed it says 14 + compensator spring preload check. I'd assume it would be the same scenario for the pre 14 models. I guess Mama Harley is the place to buy the SE kit as there probably aren't any discount suppliers for factory stuff anymore?

 

The 14+ compensator introduced with the Rushmore touring bikes in 2014, is the best version of the 2006 updated compensator.

That 2014+ comp eventually became the current "Screamin' Eagle Big Twin Comp", in retro fit form, for Twin Cams after 2006 Dyna and 2007 all other models.....

So once you add the Big Twin Comp, the preload check will apply to your bike, if/when that Big Twin Comp starts making noise. It doesn't apply to your 2009 OEM comp.

 

Did my 09 Road king this spring. Bought the SE compensator kit.
Got about 5600 miles/9120 kilometres on it so far and no issues.

easy to do for sure. Good luck.