how your bike runs in tn. and how it will run in fl. are two different stories... what runs strong in one place mite flop in the other... i suggest getting it dynoed at a local to your area shop....JMO

 

I never had mine on the dyno and as far as I am concerned I do not need to waste the money. My bike runs great. no hesitation it just gets up and goes when i twist it. i look at my plugs and it they tell me that i am running well. so i feel there is no need to waste the money on a dyno tune. as far as numbers go most bikes running what i have stage four every thing but a stroker kit are getting the magic 100 100 give or take a point or two with that being said no need to spend 500 or so on a tuner and dyno tune. i guess maybe i got lucky i went all Harley and the download they used has done the job. when i went to the Vance and hines true duels i went with the quiet baffles and lucked out again no problems a while back i decided to slip the baffles in that came with the pipes they are louder my bike ran like crap low end hesitation not enough back pressure i then put the quiet baffles back in with out the packing around them and bingo running like a top and louder. stock baffles that come with the Vance and hines true duels are opened on the end the quiet baffles have a cap on the end that creates more back pressure.

 

One man's "waste" of money is another man's optimized tune.

The dyno is a tool. If you choose not to take advantage of it's capabilities, so be it.

I haven't made enough changes to my bike to justify a full session for tuning. But having verified the a/f ratio (before & after installing slip-ons) with a baseline dyno run ($55) has given me peace of mind that was well worth the money.

 

imrotton2 The bike was dyno in fl. I had it dyno in TN. and it made more power better air.

 

Nikonf8, glad to hear your bike is running good. But, I paid $100.00 for my dyno tune when I got my cams done. It would of cost me $200 if I just got the tune alone. I don't know who was going to charge you $500 but I wouldn't pay that either.

 

'07 fxstc, 103 stage II, V&H BR 2-2, std. dyno

HP-76.41
Tq-96.6

 

Hey GregH:

Got a custom myself and really dig your apes. How big and what kind are they? thinking of doing something similar myself.

 

Nt that is almost the same lines I got 92TQ and 80HP with over 80TQ at 2K... I really like the 26h cam in our Heritage, great low TQ line and thats where we wanted it for our riding.

My sheet is the 1st one in this thread, I started it...thanks

I've seen this several times now, when I put the cams in and got 92/80 and can really feel the difference and Urs has 107/107 and Ur wanting more, I just can't imagine what 20% more would do,. I bout throw Grandma off the a$$ end now with just what we have.....probably looose our teeth..

 

This one was in reply to Richs2006 quest for 100+ Hp, not sure how it ended up here!
With the head work you've done I think you'd be happier with a bigger cam (and a 2 into 1 exhaust, like a D&D Fatcat). Our motors are "similar", and I'm very happy running an Andrews TW55. John Sacks designed the grind, and it pulls like a frieght train from 2000 to 6200, where I have the rev. limiter set. And check out the flat torque curve. With the right Dyno tune you should fly past 100hp, IMHO. -It's like a disease, I just got the one put together and I'm planning another, know what I mean? Keep the tack in black!

 

Hey guys was wonderin if you could give me some insight. When I had my train tuned about a month ago she put down 76hp and 90ft/lbs. Shes runnin just a smidge on the rich side right now. But she runs sooo much better than before.

If I switch to the SE 10mm plugs is that gonna change anything? Just not sure what to expect.

Also what could I expect from a set of rockers?