Brake dust?
or are you saying the rotors don't wear out ?? how far can you go on a set of pads ?? I have over 40 thou on my bike and still have the original rotors but replace pads every 5/8 thou. miles
I ran one set of pads and the HD floating rotors for almost 20 thousand. The rotors looked like new, but the pads were getting close to replacement time. There are no rivets...they are bonded so you don't have to change them out until they get very thin. On the web-site they say they run on average 18000 miles. It is very important that you make sure you clean the calipers like they say, and do it at least half as often as they say. I know it's a pain in the ***, but I like playing with my **** and making sure it's all perfect....I'm kinda nuts like that. Before getting the rotors and pads on my 05, I had trouble with warped rotors and calipers hanging up, I learned from that and came up with the info I needed (from LRB) and I have been following their guidlines. I can say that I have zero brake issues at this time and in the last 25000 miles the only issue I had was a mild leak on the front master because the deal tech put his magic touch on it. They are so helpful! LOL
Floating rotors are rotors that consist of a hub or carrier that bolts to the wheel like a stock rotor and an outer ring that is the brake rotor. This seperates the heat from the rotor from the wheel. It also allows the rotor to move a little on the fasteners that attach them to the carrier. Thes fasteners usually incorporate a spring washer to keep some tension on the rotor so it does not rattle. There are different levels of quality and they start with the typical HD floating rotors for about $125 ea. They pretty much go up in price frome there. Keep in mind, you do get what you pay for. The more expensive rotors from LRB are not for dress up but they look bitchin'. They are among the best out there. Good Luck!
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/a...ive_Rotors.htm
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/a...ite_Rotors.htm
If you get the composite rotors (ka-ching!) you need the Red+ pads.
Floating rotors are rotors that consist of a hub or carrier that bolts to the wheel like a stock rotor and an outer ring that is the brake rotor. This seperates the heat from the rotor from the wheel. It also allows the rotor to move a little on the fasteners that attach them to the carrier. Thes fasteners usually incorporate a spring washer to keep some tension on the rotor so it does not rattle. There are different levels of quality and they start with the typical HD floating rotors for about $125 ea. They pretty much go up in price frome there. Keep in mind, you do get what you pay for. The more expensive rotors from LRB are not for dress up but they look bitchin'. They are among the best out there. Good Luck!
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/a...ive_Rotors.htm
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/a...ite_Rotors.htm
If you get the composite rotors (ka-ching!) you need the Red+ pads.
Wow! Nothing like being touchy, is there? Just goes to prove you're right & everyone else is not entitled to their opinion if it differs from your own.
Sorry I rattled your patience, my MoparDave friend.
Now relax - it's a hobby, after all. Although you'll disagree no doubt!!
Sorry I rattled your patience, my MoparDave friend.
Now relax - it's a hobby, after all. Although you'll disagree no doubt!!
Mopardave, Good info on the LRB website. Big believer in you get what you pay for. Know a lot of guys that look at price instead of performance. I run all performance machine components including lyndall pads (gold plus) and would recommend them to anyone looking to upgrade from stock.
Wow! Nothing like being touchy, is there? Just goes to prove you're right & everyone else is not entitled to their opinion if it differs from your own.
Sorry I rattled your patience, my MoparDave friend.
Now relax - it's a hobby, after all. Although you'll disagree no doubt!!
Sorry I rattled your patience, my MoparDave friend.
Now relax - it's a hobby, after all. Although you'll disagree no doubt!!
Yup, I guess I am. Maybe my level of patience does not suit you.
Whatever. We are talking about brakes here, not wall paper. I think it to be fairly important to not mis-inform. What you posted was not presented by you as opinion. You presentred this "info" as if it was fact. You can opine all ya want, but you need to say it is your opinion.
Does this sound like an opinion? This IS what you said, isn't it?"It's the makeup of the pad material which makes the difference, as you quite correctly point out, and any change in pad material will make a frictional difference. If Lyndall (racing, note) pads wear the disc rapidly I'm betting they're a far harder compound than stock H-D ones, which have to perform in far wider performance parameters.
Brake dust shows the pads wear quicker than stainless steel discs, and I'm happy with that. The F1 guys run things like carbon fibre brakes, which react better further up the heat range and would be useless at legal speeds, but they still produce dust from the pads wearing.
Hard pads equals less dust and poor cold low speed stopping power, sofetr pads the opposite. That's the engineering compromise, but it's only a soap and water issue anyway."
Things are getting personal now, and that's not fair on everyone else that reads this Forum. Your aggressiveness in writing style is unhelpful to what is a leisure forum not a manufacturers health & safety listing.
I stand by my words on the simple epithet that a braking force is generated by applying pressure between two moving surfaces, the end result being friction. A by-product of friction is the wearing of either surface which produces a 'dust' of material be it brake pad compound or metal from the disc.
All pad material wears at different rates, as do the discs & I accept that manufacturers spend many hours and much money to reach an acceptable compromise on various applications.
I accept that scrupulous cleaning and maintenance of the brake itself will help.
I also accept that Lyndall may produce differing pad material to that supplied by H-D MoCo as standard and that Lyndall pads may wear at different rates.
BUT - the underlying cause of all this is friction, and by vilifying my words you are clouding and personalising the issue, which will only be detrimental to those reading.
The advice, as on all forums, is research, research and more research. If the reader is unable to do this, the best advice is to contact the manufacturer of the product.
I shall say no more on the subject save to say that 'Mopar' has it's own meaning here in the UK..
I stand by my words on the simple epithet that a braking force is generated by applying pressure between two moving surfaces, the end result being friction. A by-product of friction is the wearing of either surface which produces a 'dust' of material be it brake pad compound or metal from the disc.
All pad material wears at different rates, as do the discs & I accept that manufacturers spend many hours and much money to reach an acceptable compromise on various applications.
I accept that scrupulous cleaning and maintenance of the brake itself will help.
I also accept that Lyndall may produce differing pad material to that supplied by H-D MoCo as standard and that Lyndall pads may wear at different rates.
BUT - the underlying cause of all this is friction, and by vilifying my words you are clouding and personalising the issue, which will only be detrimental to those reading.
The advice, as on all forums, is research, research and more research. If the reader is unable to do this, the best advice is to contact the manufacturer of the product.
I shall say no more on the subject save to say that 'Mopar' has it's own meaning here in the UK..
Will just add that have Lyndall Z+ Pads on both my Heritage and Sportster both .. The Cheapest and best Improvement have made on them ... Noticed the Stopping Power Immediately and after 100 Miles was even better stopping power .. Just take the time to install them right or have a pro do it that knows the procedure which simply put is a thorough cleaning of Calipers and Rotors before installing the Pads..
ok I have to ask..
you all keep saying follow the directions..
what is involved in following the directions when I change pads I just spread the calipher and put in new pads clean with maybe compressed air and good to go. granted I only get about 8000 on a set but only pay half as much..
you all keep saying follow the directions..
what is involved in following the directions when I change pads I just spread the calipher and put in new pads clean with maybe compressed air and good to go. granted I only get about 8000 on a set but only pay half as much..




