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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 06:46 PM
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I was wondering what piont and time that you need to replace your rotor. Sad but true , I have let my pads wear down too far,(I think). I have had a little metal to metal sound for a few weeks now. Will a new set of pads do the job or should I just go ahead and buy a new rotor?
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 06:53 PM
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I like your front wheel
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 06:57 PM
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get a pic of your rotor if possible, could possibly have it turned and smoothed out but i'm not positive on thickness for a bike rotor, cars can be turned several times
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 08:31 PM
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The shop manual specifies the minimum thickness for the rotor. If it can be turned, it will probably make it too thin.

Mine lasted about 50k miles on my Road King. These were with the HD floating rotors, using EBC HH pads for most of the life.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2011 | 10:23 PM
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I have changed rotors on my bike twice. I just wanted a different look.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 01:31 AM
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If it's the stock rotors, I think the Min. thickness is stamped right on them? As long as there is no major grooving, just measure and compare to minimum.

If you need new ones, and are just looking to stay stock, ebay is a great place for slightly used takeoffs for cheap.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 02:23 AM
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These were with the HD floating rotors, using EBC HH pads for most of the life.
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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I talked to the local Harley dealership and they told me that you do not turn down a rotor on a bike. The thickness WAS stamped right on the rotor itself (thanks JREICHART), It was .180, I measured mine and it was .184. So I bought a new rotor and pads. This will be my Saturday project. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to this, or is it as simple as it looks?
 
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by river_rat
I talked to the local Harley dealership and they told me that you do not turn down a rotor on a bike
+1 here. This has always been the general consensus. The rotor on a bike is way too thin to have turned down. Even if it just needs cleaned up a little, it will wind up warping in no time. Look at the difference between a set of auto rotors and bike rotors and bike rotors get just as hot. This is a good excuse to get the nice set of floaters that you've been looking at.

And yes, it's as simple as it looks. Loctite on the bolts, torque them down in incremental sequence like you would head bolts. Don't set the wheel down with your new rotor on it face down, it doesn't take a lot to bend the rotor.
 

Last edited by 95yj; Aug 23, 2011 at 09:05 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2011 | 10:10 PM
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and once the new rotor is mounted, take the wheel in and get it rebalanced.
 
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