opinions on oil leak repair
#41
seal went in by hand too.
i did coat them with a light coat of oil prior installing.
#42
#43
#44
dumb question
should the stator be completely dry?
i'm pretty sure it should. but there's some oil under the rotor & in the heads of the stator mounting bolts.
i guess i need to replace that seal & spacer too?
i was just going to install the inner primary & now i'm not sure if i should replace these parts or not.
edit - i now realize this was a dumb question...
should the stator be completely dry?
i'm pretty sure it should. but there's some oil under the rotor & in the heads of the stator mounting bolts.
i guess i need to replace that seal & spacer too?
i was just going to install the inner primary & now i'm not sure if i should replace these parts or not.
edit - i now realize this was a dumb question...
Last edited by o/d; 03-31-2012 at 09:09 PM.
#45
rode it to work this morning.
so far i don't see any oil dripping anywhere(knock on wood).
will have a better look later.
time will tell if rebuilding the starter will stop me from going through starter relays.
thanks to all that replied - especially djl - you were a big help. i really appreciate it.
so far i don't see any oil dripping anywhere(knock on wood).
will have a better look later.
time will tell if rebuilding the starter will stop me from going through starter relays.
thanks to all that replied - especially djl - you were a big help. i really appreciate it.
#46
rode it to work this morning.
so far i don't see any oil dripping anywhere(knock on wood).
will have a better look later.
time will tell if rebuilding the starter will stop me from going through starter relays.
thanks to all that replied - especially djl - you were a big help. i really appreciate it.
so far i don't see any oil dripping anywhere(knock on wood).
will have a better look later.
time will tell if rebuilding the starter will stop me from going through starter relays.
thanks to all that replied - especially djl - you were a big help. i really appreciate it.
#47
Well I'm sure glad I found this thread, I know I'm making the right choice calling the shop tomorrow to make an appt to have mine fixed. I'm a professional mechanic, but between working a lot of over time, not having any of these special tools, and it being an awesome riding season, I'd rather bite the bullet and pay more to know its done right and a lot faster than I could do it. Not to mention, I'd rather practice and learn on something like my old 90 sporty, not my $15k baby! I was just going to let it go until winter, but I just bought a swingarm bag and don't want it covered in oil after a week.
What parts were being replaced in those quotes? Every seal back there for $700?
How often do you guys replace drive belts? My bike is an 07 with less than 16k miles on it on the factory belt as far as I know. (I bought it with 5k miles in 2010) Replace it while it'll be in the shop, or do I probably have a few more seasons left on it?
What parts were being replaced in those quotes? Every seal back there for $700?
How often do you guys replace drive belts? My bike is an 07 with less than 16k miles on it on the factory belt as far as I know. (I bought it with 5k miles in 2010) Replace it while it'll be in the shop, or do I probably have a few more seasons left on it?
#48
my '02 has a wider belt than your bike - not sure if that equates to a longer lasting belt or not tho.
#49
I thought the older softails had the skinnier belts? When I was looking into doin a 200mm rear, I was going to have to get a skinnier belt off an 06-older Softail and change pulley because I have the fatter belt, if I recall.
Anyways, called the dealer today, they said as long as its just seals that are being replaced, 4 hours labor plus parts. So should be less than 500 bucks and only a few days down time, which I'm happy with.
Anyways, called the dealer today, they said as long as its just seals that are being replaced, 4 hours labor plus parts. So should be less than 500 bucks and only a few days down time, which I'm happy with.