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Why is the switch or timed relay needed? I have been thinking about a kit. I talked to one vendor and was told it was plug and play just like the ebay link you posted.
My understanding is they draw a lot of power at start up, so a isolation switch is wired in to turn the lamp on independently of the starting circuit.
So that seller sells a 6000k, 8000k, and 10000k version....are the higher numbers brighter or is that the blue color? Also, do the higher number draw more power? I DON'T want to effect the charging of the battery.
Take the metal shield off the bottom of the bulb if you want even more light. I did this on both of mine. 6000K is the bluish tint the higher the numbers go the more the colors change. I did this without a separate switch and wired it in to the low beam spot so that high beam it is off, low beam it is on.
So that seller sells a 6000k, 8000k, and 10000k version....are the higher numbers brighter or is that the blue color? Also, do the higher number draw more power? I DON'T want to effect the charging of the battery.
If you google hid 6000 8000 and 10000 it will show you the difference. 6000 if the whitest. They have a lower number that is yellowish. And then you go to 8000 it blue and 10000 is bright blue. And I don't believe that the higher the number the more power they use. It all goes through a transformer so it's all the same.
And for everything I have read QC is right about the switch. It is so the system just doesn't get a power surge.
Also I from what I have read a normal oem h4 light bulb last up to 400 hours. An hid light bulb is to last up to 4000 hours.
So that seller sells a 6000k, 8000k, and 10000k version....are the higher numbers brighter or is that the blue color? Also, do the higher number draw more power? I DON'T want to effect the charging of the battery.
As you go from 6000k to 10000k, the light is MORE blue and LESS bright.
In other words, a 6000k HID kit is brighter and has a whiter light (with a slight tint of blue) than 10000k which is not as bright and more blue.
55W H4 Bi-Xenon 6000k HID kits are very common. Finding a place for the ballast can be a job itself. Realize that HID kits have a high current draw when starting the bike. Therefore, most installs will include an on/off switch or a timed relay.
There is little difference in current draw since it is controlled by a ballast.
Last edited by Bone Doc; Mar 23, 2013 at 10:47 PM.
Reason: spelling
I'm gonna try this out on my 06 electra glide. Not sure where I'm gonna put the switch though lol.
What about the 4300k light? Would that be even more bright, like the natural sun?
I'm gonna try this out on my 06 electra glide. Not sure where I'm gonna put the switch though lol.
What about the 4300k light? Would that be even more bright, like the natural sun?
When you get at or below 5000k, the light can begin to appear more yellowish. The 4300k would be extremely bright. Be aware that if it is too bright, it may affect oncoming vehicles.
I'm gonna try this out on my 06 electra glide. Not sure where I'm gonna put the switch though lol.
What about the 4300k light? Would that be even more bright, like the natural sun?
6000k is the sweet spot, its close to daylight and an HID light is plenty bright enough at any color temperature.
Great thread here. I always want to be seen in the day and have a headlight modulator. Obviously with this, i would ditch the headlight modulator, but will the brightness of the light be an even tradeoff for the pulsing light (safety wise for other motorists to see me)?
Also, dose this look like it's big enough to house everything? I fit my entire headlight modulator kit inside this JP Cycles bullet headlamp...I dont wanna be stuffing anything near my battery, its packed in there and i dont care to legnthen wires either...
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