Change horn cover on a new 1200 Custom question
#1
Change horn cover on a new 1200 Custom question
I wanted to change the horn cover on my 2016 1200 Custom, and get rid of the stock cowbell cover. Bought a Harley cover with the bar and shield emblem. The instructions say to use red Loctite 271 on the nut that attaches the cover to the horn. This is the nut that if you over tighten it, can ruin your horn, or at the least make it sound like a wounded duck. What I don't get is that the red 271 stuff is the type of Loctite that needs to be heated to about 500 degrees to get back off...and in the instructions, there is nothing about doing that to remove it from the original cover. So, if it doesn't have red Loctite on it originally, why am I putting it on when I replace it? Anyone have any experience with this?
#2
Good question! I can only say that when it is sounded it vibrates and so it is possible that if it doesn't have red loctite the nut may vibrate off. My experience of over 40 years of Harley ownership is that the horn won't last very many years before it dies anyway, in which case heating the nut to get it off won't be a problem!
#3
Good question! I can only say that when it is sounded it vibrates and so it is possible that if it doesn't have red loctite the nut may vibrate off. My experience of over 40 years of Harley ownership is that the horn won't last very many years before it dies anyway, in which case heating the nut to get it off won't be a problem!
Thanks for the response. What I can't figure is if vibration is an issue, which it surely is, as it obviously vibrates like a tuning fork, what version of Loctite do they use at the factory that still allows it to stay secure, but it supposedly easy to take off, and why can't I use that to put it back on? Doesn't make sense to me...
On another note...I have a analogue oil temp gauge dipstick that I replaced the stock one with. It goes to 350 degrees. What is normal operating temp for oil on a 1200? Can't find that anywhere...
#4
I'm not sure if your 1200 is same as mine but when my bike is warm and I come up to a traffic light and idle for a couple of minutes, it hovers at 200 degrees. When the bike is moving and it's not too hot out, it runs in the 100-150 degree range.
#5
In recent years the MoCo has been buying in stock with pre-applied thread locker, so I doubt if they use liquid versions any more, during original factory assembly. The recommendation to use red is probably only intended for aftermarket use, such as when changing the horn or cover. If you ever change the brake rotor or rear pulley screws (a recent experience of mine) you will see that they have a baked-on 'stuff' in the threads which is hard.
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jsgiunta (05-04-2016)
#6
That's exactly what mine is doing...same temps at same times...so sounds normal, I guess...thanks
#7
In recent years the MoCo has been buying in stock with pre-applied thread locker, so I doubt if they use liquid versions any more, during original factory assembly. The recommendation to use red is probably only intended for aftermarket use, such as when changing the horn or cover. If you ever change the brake rotor or rear pulley screws (a recent experience of mine) you will see that they have a baked-on 'stuff' in the threads which is hard.
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#8
I suspect there is more than one colour - the ones I recall look to be a pale cream or yellow, but that is indeed the stuff. I learned the hard way to torque up quickly when installing such screws, as if left for a few minutes, partway in, they might as well be set in concrete!
#9
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#10
I am planning to change out the stock horn cover on my 2016 1200C. Haven't made up my mind, still checking out options. Please post a picture of your new cover when it is installed.