Top end rebuild - hone or not ?
#11
If you pull the cylinders off you will have to do at least two things. (Three if you count replacing the gaskets)
1) Hone the cylinders to remove the glaze.
2) Replace the rings, reused rings will never seat again.
If you relieve the compression on the base gaskets (because you removed the heads) you are setting yourself up for a leak. Maybe the base gaskets won't leak but the key word is maybe.
If you have your cylinders "in hand" and you take them to machine shop to have them honed they should be checked with a dial bore gauge for wear.
1) Hone the cylinders to remove the glaze.
2) Replace the rings, reused rings will never seat again.
If you relieve the compression on the base gaskets (because you removed the heads) you are setting yourself up for a leak. Maybe the base gaskets won't leak but the key word is maybe.
If you have your cylinders "in hand" and you take them to machine shop to have them honed they should be checked with a dial bore gauge for wear.
The following users liked this post:
Mihail Petev (07-19-2018)
#12
Thanks - will bring them to my local Harley dealer I`m sure they will have the tools to hone them and hopefully not ask for something like 1K for doing it
#13
Thanks - will bring them to my local Harley dealer I`m sure they will have the tools to hone them and hopefully not ask for something like 1K for doing it [/QUOTE]
Don't let them beat you up on the price. I own an engine machine shop, our prices are;
$50.00 for bore and finish hone.
$20.00 for hone only.
Don't let them beat you up on the price. I own an engine machine shop, our prices are;
$50.00 for bore and finish hone.
$20.00 for hone only.
#14
1, -If you new you had a ring problem B4 the start it would have saved you a lot of grief.
You ring seal may be just fine.
2, - rings freely rotate in the cylinder bores and as long as you are carfull with them you can reuse them as long as the bore is not disturbed.
We do it on porches. UFOs and lots of stuff, no problems and I am not the lone ranger here.
#3- if you go to the point of replacing the ring pack because you either bored it or honed it, put in Hipo rings with a 9 to 12 lb drag
Dont install the standard fair as they will pull up to 30 lbs!,
yes they are a littl more money but way worth it
Its wasted energy and extra heat.
I have no idea why shops sell such crap
You ring seal may be just fine.
2, - rings freely rotate in the cylinder bores and as long as you are carfull with them you can reuse them as long as the bore is not disturbed.
We do it on porches. UFOs and lots of stuff, no problems and I am not the lone ranger here.
#3- if you go to the point of replacing the ring pack because you either bored it or honed it, put in Hipo rings with a 9 to 12 lb drag
Dont install the standard fair as they will pull up to 30 lbs!,
yes they are a littl more money but way worth it
Its wasted energy and extra heat.
I have no idea why shops sell such crap
The following 2 users liked this post by Kingglide549:
Mihail Petev (07-19-2018),
RRider (07-19-2018)
#15
#16
If you run into a dead end call a performance shop like Axtell, or Baisely
Or just go straight to the people that make rings they will just need the dimensions.
No magic required.
the next thing is the "doo gooders internet experts will tell you your oil consumption will go way up.
Don't believe them.
Depending on a LOT of things I go from a 1/4 of Qt to a 1/2 qt in about 1500 miles.
that is a small price and I know of stock bikes that get way worse.
Or just go straight to the people that make rings they will just need the dimensions.
No magic required.
the next thing is the "doo gooders internet experts will tell you your oil consumption will go way up.
Don't believe them.
Depending on a LOT of things I go from a 1/4 of Qt to a 1/2 qt in about 1500 miles.
that is a small price and I know of stock bikes that get way worse.
#17
#19
If an engine uses (burns) oil the rings are not sealing against the surface of the cylinder wall well enough to clean excess oil and return it to the crankcase. If the rings are not effective at cleaning the cylinder wall of excess oil they are not effective at sealing compression gas either causing blow by, carbon build up and reducing cylinder pressure every time the engine fires.
The separation (the job your rings do) between your oil and compression is critical in keeping contaminites out of the oil and carbon build up out of the cylinder every time the engine fires.
So..................it's probably more about what an individual is willing to sacrifice for the sake of gains in other areas.
The following users liked this post:
RRider (07-20-2018)
#20
I have found the rings set @ about 9 to 12 lb use little oil.
This works for me , instead of converting power to just more friction.
Like I said, a 1/2 a QT or less, in 1500 miles, is acceptable for me, , as I have a very high CR, cam, and all the stuff that goes with it.
This engine runs very good and will haul **** all day long, two up, and very hvy, over 85 MPH.
It may not be for everyone but it works very well for my use.
This works for me , instead of converting power to just more friction.
Like I said, a 1/2 a QT or less, in 1500 miles, is acceptable for me, , as I have a very high CR, cam, and all the stuff that goes with it.
This engine runs very good and will haul **** all day long, two up, and very hvy, over 85 MPH.
It may not be for everyone but it works very well for my use.
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