Luckily I found this out while the bike was sitting in the garage. When I turn the throttle it hangs open and I have to assist it back. Furthermore, the two cables are loose where they enter the switch housing. How involved is this repair going to be and can someone give me some pointers? How much "play" should there be in the throttle before I feel resistance?

 

Before you do anything, make sure the throttle friction **** (star wheel) is backed off. It's located between the 2 throttle cables on the underside of the throttle/switch housing.

 

Yep, my bonehead mistake. That's why it was sticking. But I'm still curious about the loose cables where they enter the switch housing, and also about how much "play" the throttle should have.

 

mine are loose as well they are fine like that

 

You can adjust the amount of play, but it's a pain in the *** and it doesn't hurt anything. You have to take the brake lever/bottom ring thing off, one you do, you've gotta eyeball/clip the cables in place, roll down those rubber boots on the cable adjustments ( possibly cracking them), adjust them, VERY careful not to pinch wires/slide throttle grip out of place. Two sets of hands makes it a little easier, but it still sucks.

 

Not sure what the above post is all about, but the throttle cable adjustment is not difficult at all.

The following applies to carb and EFI.

First, spray a little lubricant into the rubber boots covering the throttle cable adjusters. Slide the rubber covers down to expose the throttle cable adjusters on both the throttle cable and the idle cable, loosen the locking / jam nuts on both adjusters with a set of wrenches. The actual adjustments can be made by hand then tighten the jam nuts back against the adjusting nut with the set of wrenches.

Loosen the pull closed cable (the one towards the rear of the bike) several turns or until it's slack.

Twist throttle and hold at wide open, then adjust the throttle cable's adjuster (if seated on bike the one furthest away from you on the bottom of the handlebar housing) at same time rocking throttle from wide open to letting it close a little and back to wide open until you see the throttle cam touching the cam stop on the carb/throttle body, or hear a clicking noise. You want it just tight enough that you get solid contact against the stop but not so tight that you are stretching the cable when when twisting hard to wide open throttle (WOT).

Now adjust the idle cable in the direction that takes the play out of the throttle, leaving just a little. Make sure throttle snaps back or closed when you let off of it with the handle bars in all positions, straight-left-right. If it is not real snappy add more slack or free play to the throttle by adjusting the idle cable. Once all is good lock the jam nuts and slide the rubber covers back up.

Please, If you're going to wrench on your own bike, buy a Service Manual, it's money well spent. I also recommend the "Fix My Hog DVD"

 

Only thing to add to above is: don't adjust it to the stop but just 1/16" before to prevent jamming the carb inner mechanism (should lightly tap) and the decellerator is adjusted to remove play in the throttle (again about 1/16") and should snap back when released. Ditto on service manual. If you adjust this wrong, can cause running problems by the way...