I hate to take credit but, I stripped one of the 4 brass screws holding the bowl to the carb. I tried to use a "grab-it" to get it out and only managed to completly rounded out the top.

I still need to jet the carb but, I didn't want to go any further without some advice 1st?

I'm thinking maybe try to file 2 sides and try small vise-grips or an open end wrench... I'm guessing if that doesn't work, am I going to have to drill it out or are there alternatives? I'm greatful for any advice, thanks in advance.

Regards,
Jason

 

I have not stripped one of them yet. I have used vise grips before with a lot of success. If they wont grab tight, and I mean tight, then you will probably have to file some flats on it. If that fails I guess another option would be to try and CAREFULLY drill off the head, after you removed the others. Remove the bowl and you should be able to grab whats left with the vise grips.

Carb screws tend to stick. When I am removing them for the first time I put the carb on a flat surface and really get up on top of the screw. Pushing down while the screwdriver is up against my chest and use a quick twisting motion. All the while pushing down about as hard as I can using my upper body weight to apply downward force on the screwdriver to keep it from walking up and out of the slots. Be sure you have the correct size screwdriver and it's not all worn out. Usually a No. 2 phillips for american screws. I'm pretty sure the your carb is made in Japan and they use JIS standard screw slots. Looks like a Phillips but it's not. You can sometimes get by in a pinch with an American Phillips head screwdriver if you grind off about 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch off the end so it no longer comes to a point. The JIS screws have a flat bottom to the slots and Phillips come to a point. By grinding off the point on a Phillips it goes down into the slots further and has less tendancy to walk up and out of the slots.

 

Good advice from JD. I've had success carefully cutting a slot with a hacksaw and then using a strait blade screwdriver.

When you reassemble it, use stainless steel socket head cap screws. SS will not galvanize into the aluminum. Flat washers and split-locks too. You'll never have that problem again.

 

What he said!

 

I'm a fairly smart guy and I've noticed the diffrence in phillips before but, had no idea there were different types of phillips i.e. American and JIS. Learn something new everyday.

I knew they were going to be soft and I did just as you would but, I had a pointed screw driver for my attemt at the one I stripped. Thanks again, I think I will try it again shortly.

Thanks,
J

 

Sundog,

I had a hacksaw and a flat head sittin' right beside me while I was trying all this other crap! I think I'll try your idea 1st them go to vise-grips if that doesn't work out.

Thanks,
J

 

I used a dremel with a cutting wheel to put a slot in the screw top and used a regular screwcriver to take it out.

 

+1 That's exactly what I do in similiar circumstances.

 

Was reading through this old thread for some information and noticed the above statement. Is this true? I thought you would still need to use a bit of anti-seize on a stainless steel fastener going into an aluminum carburetor body.

 

The carb body is a zinc alloy, not aluminum. Also, having a couple of JIS screwdrivers has been an invaluable addition to my toolbox. I can fix all my buddies dirt bikes carbs and other components.

John