What oil are you using in the primary? Are any of the other oil levels affected, like there could be a transfer?

I'd drain the primary oil and pull the outer cover and clean it out as well as you can. But I would avoid harsh chemicals near any rubber seal or clutch disk. I'd then use the same primary gasket to reassemble and fill with the correct oil and take it for a long ride. At least 30-40 minutes or 40 miles so everything is at full operating temperature. In Pennsylvania this time of year it may take even longer to reach operating temperature. Then I'd check the primary oil level again to see how it looks, and if the level has changed.

One thing you want to avoid is starting the engine and not riding it enough to get up to operating temperature so that moisture in the engine, trans and primary can get hot enough to boil off moisture. If you are finished riding for the year, put it on a tender and don't start it again until you are ready to take it out for a long ride.

Paul

 

The Xombies arise again! The coming winter months beckon them! Be gone, foul spirits!

John

 

Zombie threads never die, John, they just eat away at your heart and soul forever and a day.

 

🤣 wow...

 

Not if the entry point was higher than the fluid level.

 

Gasoline contains petroleum hydrocarbons, when gasoline is burnt with air, the hydrocarbons in the fuel react with the air to produce Carbon Dioxide (CO2). Water (H2O) and Nitrogen (N2)

If an engine is only used for short runs, the motor doesn't get up to it's optimum working temperature and water condensation can build up in the oil which turns it a milky white colour.

To avoid milky oil, one must take the motorcycle on a long run at least once a month to get the motor up to it's optimum working temperature and boil off the water that was present in the oil.

Continually running a motor with water in the oil for short journeys will cause damage to the engine.

 

Maybe so, but this 11 year old post is about Transmission and Primary lube.