Plain and simple. BCS ... Blown Clutch Syndrome.

Dumping the clutch to do burn outs put a major load on the clutch.

I wouldn't think it's the discs, my thought is a broken clutch hub on the transmission input shaft.

The outside of the clutch will turn but the power will not transfer if the inner hub has been damaged and isn't transferring power to the transmission, UNDER POWER / LOAD.

When turning things by hand you may get all the proper action, but under load, with power it's just slips.

Be sure to post back with the solution!

 

I think the 5 speed tranny is pretty bullet proof and if you need to inspect it you can pull it out as a single unit. I think there's around 5 bolts on the cover then pull the whole thing out.

 

Well that’s OK then. He needs all the help he can get. (poke - poke couldn't find the smiles)

PS: USN 66-70

Keep us posted.

 

How many of the 8000 miles did your friend put on?

The simple fact of the matter is that there's no power getting to the rear wheel. We can exclude the engine (it runs), the primary and the drive belt.

That means it's either the clutch or the gearbox. Question: With the engine running in idle, have you tried changing gears, say from second to third, without disengaging the clutch? If you can do that without getting crunching noises, the problem is probably the clutch. If you do get crunching noises, the clutch is working and the problem is downstream in the drivetrain.

 

On the '03 and earlier XLs, you're spot on - '04 and later did away w/the trap door, gotta split cases to get at the transmission on those.

Either way - the transmissions themselves are usually VERY solid - the only issues that I'm aware of (aside from excessive wear) are shifter-forks bending. Ironhead XLs had a tendency to break the lower right corner of the case (where the countershaft is supported) when excessive power was put to it, but, the EVO XLs generally don't experience many transmission problems.

(this excludes clutches/shifter shaft issues)

 

Thanks again guys, I appreciate the responses.

I'm not sure how many miles he has put on himself. I can't imagine more that 700-1000. Just a guess though.

He just dropped off the bike, so I was able to go verify.

When the bike is started and running, I can shift from neutral to first, first to second, second to third, on so on, without disengaging the clutch. No crunching noises at all, it actually sounds just like regular shifting.

FWIW, I recall him saying that he was not using the clutch during the burnout...shifting sport-bike style, if you will.

 

That would point to the clutch being the problem. Pull it apart and see what you find.

 

I think you need to pull the primary cover off, pull the clutch pack, and see if your hub is attached to the mainshaft, may have stripped the hub splines. There's a nut inside there too that may have come loose.

John

 

Update - I haven't had a chance yet to pull the primary cover off yet, but I did get the bike on the jack and pull the drain plug.

While it was draining, I noticed how burned up the fluid smelled. Hopefully tonight I can get the primary cover off.

 

You know you may be very lucky.

I believe there may be a shear pin, or sometimes called a key-way that's been damaged. You may have a loose nut that allow things to turn on the shaft and shear the clutch hub's keyway.

I may be wrong you may have a splined setup on your particular motor.