Testing regulator, need help
#1
Testing regulator, need help
I had the eng light and battery light come on on my 2008 Ultra. Bike off I get 13.6 volts. Same at idle.
Stator continuity test was good. I unplugged the stator and had about 20 volts at each wire at idle.
I then check the stator side of the regulator and had about 12.6 volts at each of the posts.
Next I tried the diode test on the regulator. The only time I got a reading was with the neg lead from the meter to the pos socket of the charge side of the regulator, positive lead to each of the stator posts. 360 at all 3 stator posts. No readings at all with the other 3 combinations.
Does this sound like a bad regulator? Would I be safe trying a new regulator or would a bad stator burn it up?
Stator continuity test was good. I unplugged the stator and had about 20 volts at each wire at idle.
I then check the stator side of the regulator and had about 12.6 volts at each of the posts.
Next I tried the diode test on the regulator. The only time I got a reading was with the neg lead from the meter to the pos socket of the charge side of the regulator, positive lead to each of the stator posts. 360 at all 3 stator posts. No readings at all with the other 3 combinations.
Does this sound like a bad regulator? Would I be safe trying a new regulator or would a bad stator burn it up?
#2
when you attach a meter at the battery with the motor running ( and you can rev it up)
you should not see any DC voltage above 14.8 volts DC
( and the AC volts at the stator should be 16~20 per 1000 rpms- this may vary I don;t have a manual for your bike)
you should not see an AC volts at all ( at the battery- the diode bridge recitifier will take off the tops and bottoms of the AC sine wave = DC voltage
another result of bad diode is voltage draining back thru the VR to ground from the battery when the bike is off- an ammeter will show any current flow back wards.
the tech board electrical section has a sticky with full diagnostics- read through that
Mike
you should not see any DC voltage above 14.8 volts DC
( and the AC volts at the stator should be 16~20 per 1000 rpms- this may vary I don;t have a manual for your bike)
you should not see an AC volts at all ( at the battery- the diode bridge recitifier will take off the tops and bottoms of the AC sine wave = DC voltage
another result of bad diode is voltage draining back thru the VR to ground from the battery when the bike is off- an ammeter will show any current flow back wards.
the tech board electrical section has a sticky with full diagnostics- read through that
Mike
The following users liked this post:
mctraveler (09-15-2019)
#3
There are stickys in the electrical section on how to check the charging system. But in my opinion, 85% of the time the engine and battery light comes on, it's the regulator.
Btw...your open load stator test at idle sounds right. You might want to rev the motor and ensure the voltage increases. But, if it reads about 20 VAC at idle across all the leads...it's probably Ok.
Some of your other readings are confusing.
Soooo...save some time, and just buy a regulator. Also, while you are in there, if your battery is more than 5 years old I would replace it for good measure. Plus, if the regulator hasn't been charging it fully for a while...it's days are numbered.
Good luck..
Btw...your open load stator test at idle sounds right. You might want to rev the motor and ensure the voltage increases. But, if it reads about 20 VAC at idle across all the leads...it's probably Ok.
Some of your other readings are confusing.
Soooo...save some time, and just buy a regulator. Also, while you are in there, if your battery is more than 5 years old I would replace it for good measure. Plus, if the regulator hasn't been charging it fully for a while...it's days are numbered.
Good luck..
The following users liked this post:
frenchbiker (09-17-2019)
#4
The battery is less than a year old, always kept on tender.
Would a bad stator destroy the new regulator?
I read the sticky in the Electrical Tech section. Sounds like tests described are for an earlier model.
"Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator."
Does the above step describe NOT having any DC voltage on the stator side of the regulator? I have 12.6 V at each of the 3 posts
Would a bad stator destroy the new regulator?
I read the sticky in the Electrical Tech section. Sounds like tests described are for an earlier model.
"Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator."
Does the above step describe NOT having any DC voltage on the stator side of the regulator? I have 12.6 V at each of the 3 posts
#5
The battery is less than a year old, always kept on tender.
Would a bad stator destroy the new regulator?
I read the sticky in the Electrical Tech section. Sounds like tests described are for an earlier model.
"Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator."
Does the above step describe NOT having any DC voltage on the stator side of the regulator? I have 12.6 V at each of the 3 posts
Would a bad stator destroy the new regulator?
I read the sticky in the Electrical Tech section. Sounds like tests described are for an earlier model.
"Step 2. To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast.
To do this with a meter: black lead to battery ground, red lead to each pin on the plug, start with the voltage scale higher than 12vdc and move voltage scale down in steps for each pin. Any voltage is a bad regulator."
Does the above step describe NOT having any DC voltage on the stator side of the regulator? I have 12.6 V at each of the 3 posts
#7
Trending Topics
#9
#10
I have been doing a lot of reading on the regulator and it looks like it is definitely bad.
Diode test showed current/flow? in only one of four combinations....should be two of four.
Also, with the charging side of the regulator plugged in I am getting a voltage reading on the stator side.
I'm sure my stator is weak but I'm hoping this will get me on the road for a bit while the weather is nice. Once days get shorter I plan to replace the stator and compensator.