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The 5w-40 syn rotella i was reffering to is in fact the T6 i unfortunately didnt put the 6 with the t,sorry about that.

But point of bringing it up at all was OP put the question about rotella t for primary and they mfg diff grades syn & std dino rotella T , T6 etc and i was aking which he was reffering to.

Also passed along info i got from speaking to shell oil engineer for other oil research i was doing at the time where he told me they had frictions mods in those oils which isnt always wet clutch friendly which i simply passed along.

And i didnt bother to mention this when i 1st posted in this thread but since your being over critical about what i had posted and are rec improper shell oil thats not specifically mfg'd & or formulated for any of hd's 3 holes is when i asked if he'd rec running any of the shell rotella line of oils in the 1700cc air cooled v-twin with wet clutch i was running at the time and he said no because they not are properly formulated for use in motorcycle apps with fric mods in it without proper chem additive pkg too (esp increased zddp/anti wear agent our bike motors benefit from) and rec using motorcycle specific oil in a grade the motorcycle mfg recs using.

I never ever said rotella was bad oil or poor quality and your going on and on about how the shell oi can handle 600hp,so what,walmart oil could handle it for x amount of time too which isnt whats being questioned .

I also said using the shell oil would not cause prim to blow up any time soon too and said right after that my rec was that its always best to use oil thats specifically mfg'd & formulated for app its being used in like for example with our HD's using primary oil in the primary case , trans oil in trans and motor oil in motor which is never a bad rec or wrong thing to do either

You can argue that till the cows come home but since we all have to buy some kind of oil for all 3 holes in our HD's why the heck not buy whats specifically & or formulated to run in each of the different 3 holes in our HD's in the 1st place ?

I strongly suspect if just that/guys using improper oil in motor , prim & trans that thats at times is leading to premature failures of of bearings , chain tensioners etc.

And ATF in prim guys are running does allows the clutch to release better to reduce or stop clunk when shifting which some clutch mfg rec using to get out of trouble with compalints with clunking shifting .

But problem is ATF is thin as water vs proper 85w prim case oil along with no having proper additive pkg like the 85w prim case oil has for hd that will properly/safely lube the prim case and associated bearing-s that are known to go bad which i think at times is due the too thin aft not lubing the low quality bearings hd has been using and or running std motor like rotella thats not rec by shell engineer i talked to either.

And yes i know some car/small truck mfg's do use aft in man trans apps but that works ok because "THOSE TANSMISSIONS INC PARTS LIKE BEARINGS ETC ARE ALL SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED & MFG'D TO BE LUBE WITH thin AFT INC THE CHEMICALL ADDITIVE PKG IT HAS TOO" !

But HD's prim or motor etc were not never desinged for atf or rotella oil so they are not the best choice oils for those apps unless its an emeregency and you cant get for ex proper motor oil where they temporarily rec 15w-40 diesel oil in the motor but to change oil ASAP when you get home to proper hd rec oil.

And if i has to do i would not use rottella 15w-40 ,i would use chevrons delo 15w-40 diesel oil not because the rotella 15-40 is because its not,its because chevrons diesel oil is also a decent oil but it still has a decnet zddp/zinc % phos lvl of 1300ppm where std rotella 15-40 zddp lvl is approx 1150-1200ppm and for air cooled bike motors esp hd motor that we all know get nice and hot approx 1200-1300ppm zddp (anyiwear agent!) lvl is about the least you want to go for best protection.

All the diesel oils used to have approx 1500ppm zddp byt the fed gov/epa mandated the zddp lvl be reduced a few times (in steps) over the past approx 10yrs or so due to emissions issues caused in some cases by zddp in ex gases of motor using oil prematurely fouling cat converters resulting high emission's and car mfg's having to replace the cats under warranty.

We will just have to agree to disagree on this one and i will stick with my rec to run oil thats specifically formulated for each of the 3 holes in our HD's which i feel is in no way shape or form a bad or poor rec to make to anyone here in this forum .

Happy motoring!

Scott

 

It's lubricating a chain and a wet clutch. Not rocket science. Just make sure it doesn't have friction modifiers and just about anything will do really. If you feel better using whatever brand you'd like then go right ahead but in reality there isn't much of a difference.

 

thx everybody for the responses. i didnt want another typical oil thread lol, but i really can get this stuff for nothing. its 15w 40 and i didnt know anything about it until now. i change out my primary oil every 3k with my crank oil since clutches make oil nasty. cant figure out why Harley says its ok to run it 10k. but anywat, thx for the help. cant be any worse than screamin eagle syn oil.

 

And after all that, I still run Wal-Mart Tech 20W-50 at $2.69 qt. Have been now for 151,000 miles. Still running the original clutch, plates and all, primary chain and M-6 tensioner. I think you'll be fine OP

 

I've been using Rotella in wet clutch applications for years with zero clutch issues.

 

wow. i guess this guy blows the whole expensive quality oil debate right out of the water.

 

[QUOTE=Stiggy;14369727]And after all that, I still run Wal-Mart Tech 20W-50 at $2.69 qt. Have been now for 151,000 miles. Still running the original clutch, plates and all, primary chain and M-6 tensioner. I think you'll be fine OP

A little not so common sense used here. I agree with Stiggy.

 

I can't understand why people are opposed to using primary oil in the primary.

 

Don't you just love it when somebody says, "Well, you get what you pay for"?
There are lots of fine folks out there who believe that the more you pay for something, the better your results will be.
For my part I don't like to pay for products which have a high media advertising budget built into their MSRP.
I am not trying to win anyone over to my way of thinking though. It is what it is and if someone believes they get more value for a certain product and it's price point then more power to them.
In my limited world, if the less costly product specs out equal to the higher cost product then I go for the value product. I got that education after being in manufacturing for 40 years and seeing the same product go down the packaging line only to receive different labels just as it was being put into the shipping boxes. Some labels commanded a premium price and some labels commanded a value price. Same product in both packages. That is called "Business" and it is perfectly legal in a free market society like we live in.

 

I think people are opposed to paying 8 or 10 bucks or more a quart for something with, "Primary" on the label, when they have a suspicion that it is nothing more than 15W40 motor oil in the bottle.