What is the easiest & fastest way to change brake fluid

 

on a bike without abs, I use a syringe to remove the fluid from the reservoir- I then fill the syringe with fresh fluid and push it up the lines from the caliper until fresh fluid fills the reservoir.

abs is another story

Mike

 

With Speed Bleeders, it's a one man job. Very easy, I did my 12 Ultra last weekend. Oh, and ABS or not won't matter. Be careful not to turn the ignition on if you do have an ABS bike. I understand that if you do, you will get air in the system and need to have HD fix it with the Digital Technician. I don't know if that's true or not (I'd love to have someone explain to me how that would happen). True or not, I didn't power up my bike and had no issues.

David

 

IMHO the old fashioned way is as simple as any and only requires a short length of small ID plastic hose. Ensure you keep a little fluid in the resrvoir, so no air gets in, top up and continue. I have various instruments of torture for when things get tough, such as after stripping and rebuilding the system, but for basic maintenance simple is just that - simple! I recently serviced my Buell's brakes, which took a few minutes. It took longer to replace the front pads.

 

Speed Bleeders ABS or standard doesn't matter. Keep the Master Cylinder level in roughly the same place as it is when you started when you have completed the job so that if you end up needing new brake pads you don't end up with an over full Master. If ABS don't turn on ignition as it cycles the ABS control module. Simple process and necessary and really should be done annually when using water absorbing fluids such as DOT 4. Good Luck

 

Speed bleeder. Did it last weekend in about an hour on abs system. First time since bike was new in '11. Definitely needed it, color difference in the fluids was noticeable. Super easy, just don't turn on ignition while changing out fluid I've been told.

 

If the system is full of fluid, why does cycling the ABS module hurt anything? Thanks

David

 

AFAIK, with ABS as long as you just push the old fluid out without introducing air, bleeding is no different than Non ABS.

 

Order and install speed bleeders. These are hands-down the best way to bleed brakes by yourself. Does not matter, ABS or not.

Then get some small syringes at places like Tractor Supply in the animal medical section. The syringe will be used to carefully, without spilling, apply metered amounts of brake fluid to the master cylinder to fill it back up after you pump it down. Start on the front, open the speed bleeder 1/4 turn, and bleed the left front first, then bleed the right front. Use gentle slow pressure on the brake lever. No fast pumping or anything other than slow, systematic, pumps of the lever. Don't run the reservoir out of fluid or it will suck in some air which is not what you want to do. Run about 4 or 5 reservoirs of new brake fluid through each side to ensure that all of the old fluid is flushed out and that there is no air in the lines. I use a small plastic tube with one end pushed onto the top of the speed bleeder and let the brake fluid that comes out of the speed bleeder run into a clear plastic container out the other end.

Remember to cover your tank and painted parts with shop rags or towels (gas tank, fender, frame, etc). If you spill any on an unprotected surface, wipe up immediately. Another hint, use a cord to tie your handlebars in a full-left position. You don't want the handlebars to move around any and slosh out brake fluid if you happen to accidentally bump them during the process on the front brakes. (which can happen easily and at any unforgiving time) Tied in a full-left position was the best position for my bike to keep the front reservoir fairly level. (top of opened reservoir parallel to shop floor)

After finishing the front, closing the speed bleeders, adjusting fluid level, and attaching the reservoir cover back on top of the front reservoir, now go to the rear and bleed that line, same as you did the front. Run 4 or 5 reservoirs full of new brake fluid through the line. I think I put my bike on the jack for the rear bleed to ensure that the reservoir was fairly level.

When you install the speed bleeders, be prepared right then to perform your brake bleed. That will ensure that if there was some kind of bubble trapped under the speed bleeder when you installed it, that bubble will quickly come out when you open the speed bleeder and start the bleeding process.

It's a relatively easy process that needs to be done every 2 years. Just take your time and stay calm. Always test the brakes before riding.

 

There are 2 questions I see come up in every one of these brake bleeding threads I have never seen an answer to.
1. When bleeding a bike with abs, does it bleed the fluid in the abs module?

2. I don't know why someone would turn the ignition on while bleeding, but how would that introduce air into the system if the reservoir is full? I could see it might shoot some fluid out that you don't want to happen.

Really I would like to know the answer to the first question.