Winter Storage - Pros/Cons
Keep the bike at home, cold storage won't hurt it.
As others have said, full tank, fuel stabilizer, battery tender and, if you can, start it periodically.
I will add that after you add the stabilizer to run the engine long enough to get the stabilized fuel through the injectors.
I personally use StaBil in everything that sits over 3-4 weeks or so and it makes a huge difference in how the engine starts in the spring.
I have found that if I forget to put it in, say lawn equipment, then I'm cleaning and rebuilding carbs in the spring.
StaBil claims their product will stabilize fuel up to 24 months depending on the concentration used.
As others have said, full tank, fuel stabilizer, battery tender and, if you can, start it periodically.
I will add that after you add the stabilizer to run the engine long enough to get the stabilized fuel through the injectors.
I personally use StaBil in everything that sits over 3-4 weeks or so and it makes a huge difference in how the engine starts in the spring.
I have found that if I forget to put it in, say lawn equipment, then I'm cleaning and rebuilding carbs in the spring.
StaBil claims their product will stabilize fuel up to 24 months depending on the concentration used.
Like the others, I put the bike on a lift, cover it and store it in my non-heated WI garage. Since I have a carb, I also run the gas out of the float bowl and shut off the gas.
I forgot to add that I also remove the battery, put it in the basement on the battery tender.
Other than that....
I forgot to add that I also remove the battery, put it in the basement on the battery tender.
Other than that....
I cover mine with cotton bed sheets. When stored inside I want to keep the dust off the bike, but not get any condensation under a cover. My garage has an epoxy coated floor, so moisture coming up from the floor is not an issue so it stays either on the floor/jiffy stand or I might put it up on the lift table.
More harm than good. If you are going to start it over the winter, you need to bring up to full operating temperature to allow the crankcase breathers to blow out any moisture. Water is a natural by product of combustion along with the fact that condensation forms over the winter (have you ever noticed during the winter, in unheated garage, your bike is wet?). The condensation that forms is not just on the outside. During the winter this can turn into slush inside your engine (including oil passageways). If necessary to fire it up, it has to get to full temp or you are adding to the problem - 10 minutes is not enough - if you ain't gonna ride it - leave her be.
What I did for storage was
1. Full tank of gas
2. Sta-bil or SeaFoam or ?
3. Clean/wax bike
4. Roll bike onto a large piece of corrugated cardboard or something comparable.
5. Hook up Battery Tender
6. Bed sheet or breathable cover over bike.
7. Zip tied clutch lever to grip. An old mechanic told me to do that many years ago. Personal preference.
8. If you have a lift-use it. Otherwise it's not going to hurt your tires leaving it on the floor.
9. Cover exhaust with a baggie or put steel wool in the end
10. Spray fogging oil into each cylinder
11. Put DampRid in saddlebags/tour pac
12. Lock it up real good
13. Change to fresh oil. You don't want that oil acidic oil eating away at the innards.
Yes, I went all out. Crazy huh? But I always had a great looking and running bike every summer.
Now I just ride. Salt? I ain't afraid of no salt!
I always spray down the whole bike(less rotors) with S100 Corrosion Protectant. Worth it's weight in gold-really works. Wash it off in March = spotless bike. Looks like it came off the showroom floor.
Wussies can't use that excuse for not riding in the winter anymore. Just admit it, it's too cold for you.
Gary Dyer added a couple of worthwhile points that no one else mentioned. I put some oil into the cylinders and turn the engine over by hand. He uses fogging oil. I just use motor oil. About 5-10 cc's worth. I also put sandwich baggies over the end of the mufflers with rubber bands. Prevents humid air from having a path into the cylinders. The air filter serves the same purpose on the intake side.
So I just got my 2009 Electra Glide with 30K on it last week. Want to take good care of it and make it last (and maximize the value when I trade it in). What are the pros and cons of dealer winter storage vs. under a cover in my garage. My dealer has free storage this year. I have to provide a full tank with stabil and a battery tender which I would do at home in my non-heated northern Illinois garage. Thanks for any input.
Last year I stored my pristine 2011 Fat bob at the dealer. The storage included an oil change. For some reason, they "had" to test drive it after the oil change and the rider went down on my bike. Yada yada yada - I traded it in on a 2015 SGS which I was planning on doing in the spring anyway. Moral of the story, I will be keeping the SGS in my garage this winter and every winter from now on.
It's fuel stabilizer not fuel restorer. It has chemicals that prevents the fuel from breaking down or degrading. Once degraded it's not going to bring it back. Ask anyone who deals with small engines about old, degraded gas and it's effects on those engines and carburetors. I am sure it has the same effect on our larger engines but not as apparent.











