help with choice
i have a one time small amount of cash to spend, but cant decide. i have on 06 sg and am 58 so i dont race, but id ride alot, about 20000 a year[/align][/align]if ya had achoice to do[/align][/align]1 gear drive[/align]2 pc111/wdyno[/align]3 thundermax with auto tune[/align]4 purchase 3 years ext warranty[/align][/align]what would you do, right now i have screaming eagle race ex and se ac[/align]
Personally I think the Thundermax is the way to go.
That being said ... I'm not sure if that is the direction you want to go at this moment (depending on the cash you have available).
The AUTO-TUNE for the Thundermax requires installation of the 02 bungs which you might not have on your pipes. This is for the auto-tune's wideband 02 sensors.
If this is the case you would need to have 'em welded in or replace with new header pipes with the bungs in them.
You can get the thundermax without the auto-tune but would have to kinda do the tuning yourself (I don't think there are many INDY shops which are really fluent in dialing in the Thundermax right now).
all in all..... I truely believe the Thundermax is the way to go.
That being said ... I'm not sure if that is the direction you want to go at this moment (depending on the cash you have available).
The AUTO-TUNE for the Thundermax requires installation of the 02 bungs which you might not have on your pipes. This is for the auto-tune's wideband 02 sensors.
If this is the case you would need to have 'em welded in or replace with new header pipes with the bungs in them.
You can get the thundermax without the auto-tune but would have to kinda do the tuning yourself (I don't think there are many INDY shops which are really fluent in dialing in the Thundermax right now).
all in all..... I truely believe the Thundermax is the way to go.
Riding 20K a year I would reccomend the gear drive cams, but I don't know if it can be done without the PCIII. You could probably get away without the dyno tune and just use a canned map for now. Eastern performance Cycles sells the PCIII for under $300.00.
I vote for the Thundermax. I'm an older guy also (45) and I don't race either. I'm having one installed as we speak. Nothing better than plenty of torque for easier low speed maneuvering, two up riding and rolling the throttle up and down in hilly/curvy terrain without having to shift.
I will go against the grain and recommend the 3-year extended warranty/service agreement if you are buying the HD ESP and expect to continue to ride 20K miles per year. I will explain:
As a high mileage rider, and assuming you keep the bike, you will need cam chain tensioners replaced which, unless you do the work yourself, will be a $900 repair bill (mine was, anyway). Also, it is likely that you will develop a leak somewhere, need a starter motor, etc. in 3 years of 20K per year riding.
The other mods you are considering have limitations. For example, why buy an $800 Thunder Max auto-tune when you have a stock bike, basically. The TMAT makes sense if you plan to do serious engine mods.
A cam swap should probably be deferred until the cam chain tensioners need replacement under the ESP. I did it that way and only paid for the cams; the rest of the labor was covered by the cam chain tensioner R&R.
If you do the cams now, you won't get the benefit you would otherwise get with headwork, pipes, and a good tune or the TMAT, DTT.
Same goes for the PCIII. If you have a basically stock engine, why pay for a PCIII--Do that, a TMAT/DTT or really good SERT tune when you do something with the engine.
In the end, do what you want--it's your bike/your $$$.
As a high mileage rider, and assuming you keep the bike, you will need cam chain tensioners replaced which, unless you do the work yourself, will be a $900 repair bill (mine was, anyway). Also, it is likely that you will develop a leak somewhere, need a starter motor, etc. in 3 years of 20K per year riding.
The other mods you are considering have limitations. For example, why buy an $800 Thunder Max auto-tune when you have a stock bike, basically. The TMAT makes sense if you plan to do serious engine mods.
A cam swap should probably be deferred until the cam chain tensioners need replacement under the ESP. I did it that way and only paid for the cams; the rest of the labor was covered by the cam chain tensioner R&R.
If you do the cams now, you won't get the benefit you would otherwise get with headwork, pipes, and a good tune or the TMAT, DTT.
Same goes for the PCIII. If you have a basically stock engine, why pay for a PCIII--Do that, a TMAT/DTT or really good SERT tune when you do something with the engine.
In the end, do what you want--it's your bike/your $$$.
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3. ThunderMax with Autotune. You will have a cooler, richer (non-DOT spec) running bike, you won't need dyno tuning, and the canned map can be changed out in the future if you do more mods.
$ 900.00 for changing cam chain tensioners? I pay $ 170.00 here in SoCal to my Indy, but my new heads mean installing the gear-driven S&S 570 this time around.
$ 900.00 for changing cam chain tensioners? I pay $ 170.00 here in SoCal to my Indy, but my new heads mean installing the gear-driven S&S 570 this time around.
Firetender: I should have been more accurate. The cam chain tensioners also caused an oil pump problem requiring its replacement also. The tensioners are $30 a piece; new chains were $30 each, oil pump assembly was $270; etc. Labor was 4 hours @ $80 per.
A fairing bracket was also broken on my '04 EG and was replaced during the same visit under the ESP.
Glad to hear there are indy shops able to replace both cam chain tensioners with parts for $170--let me know if he relocates to Metro Atlanta.
A fairing bracket was also broken on my '04 EG and was replaced during the same visit under the ESP.
Glad to hear there are indy shops able to replace both cam chain tensioners with parts for $170--let me know if he relocates to Metro Atlanta.





