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Passenger Floorboard Removal Help

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  #11  
Old 02-18-2018, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HDRiders
Thanks for the responses. I know they are torqued, but I am afraid I am going to snap the screw/bolt off. I will give it one more try tomorrow, but it I don't have any luck I will ride it the dealer Monday and ask them to break it free. If they break it, they can fix it since the screws/bolts were installed at the factory. It would not be the first time the factory put too much Locktite on a fastener.
If they break it, they can fix it since the screws/bolts were installed at the factory ... Being a lifelong mechanic I can offer some input ... It's a trade practice to use as much knowledge ( techniques learned over the years ) and muscle as necessary to remove a stubborn fastener. However if it breaks coming apart that's the customers problem ... if it breaks going back together that's the mechanics problem.
 
  #12  
Old 02-18-2018, 07:58 AM
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The passenger floorboard top screw is torqued to 36 to 42 ft lbs of torque. It is really pretty much impossible for anyone to remove that fastener with a T handled wrench.
 
  #13  
Old 02-18-2018, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil_R
The passenger floorboard top screw is torqued to 36 to 42 ft lbs of torque. It is really pretty much impossible for anyone to remove that fastener with a T handled wrench.
Agree wrong tool for the job.
 
  #14  
Old 02-18-2018, 12:03 PM
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Try applying Kroil or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF to the threads. Let it soak a few minutes. Then a long handled handle on the socket. Or a snipe on a regular handle. Don't bother using WD40...it's not a penetrating fluid.
 
  #15  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:37 PM
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Kroil and let it soak - overnight if required along with correct tool. My 15 year old passenger pegs where a bi#&*h when I first tried. Let the chemicals do the work.
 
  #16  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by harleytacticalnut
Allen for 3/8 ratchet.
This worked on mine - I did have one a couple of years ago that I had to use a 1/2" drive long handled ratchet and a little extra "umpf" on it.
 
  #17  
Old 02-18-2018, 05:48 PM
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The bolts on my 16 seemed to be stuck. A little heat tamed the beast.
 
  #18  
Old 02-18-2018, 08:08 PM
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PB Blaster....let it soak overnight. Tap it w/ hammer a bit, try again.




get a smaller can then this
 
  #19  
Old 02-18-2018, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TriGeezer
My money is that you can’t get leverage with what you are trying to do. Get the proper sized hex socket, an extension, and a good quality socket wrench. If you have the proper sized hex socket, fully inserted, and neither it nor the bolt head are stripped, it will break loose...and the bolt won’t break.
Originally Posted by Phil_R
The passenger floorboard top screw is torqued to 36 to 42 ft lbs of torque. It is really pretty much impossible for anyone to remove that fastener with a T handled wrench.
Originally Posted by Veekness
Try applying Kroil or a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF to the threads. Let it soak a few minutes.
As mentioned, the service manual calls for blue loctite and 36-42 ft-lbs of torque on that top bolt. A T-handle won't cut it...

I recently took my passenger footboards off. The bike is a 2016, I bought used.

That top bolt was a BEAR...! I used a 3/8" socket/wrench and when I muscled it enough to move, it creaked like it was going to snap. I shot the front/back area of the bolt with Kroil oil, waited about 30 minutes and was able to muscle it out...

I saw no reason it should have taken so much force/strength... No corrosion, no cross threading, but a bunch of threadlocker. It looked like that HD, OEM stuff, that comes on some new HD bolts.

Anyways, I used a thread-chaser set to clean out the threads on/in both the bolt and the hole. I put it back together at proper torque w/ blue loctite...

We'll see what happens if I need to ever remove it again.....
 
  #20  
Old 02-18-2018, 11:08 PM
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Snap it off?!? Those bolts are like 1/2” diameter bolts
 


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