I noticed that the top engine stabilizer link on my 15 sgs is froze up. I sprayed some wd40 on it and was able to get to pivot by using pliers. I know they don’t move a lot, but it seams like it should pivot easier than what it does. I’m thinking that the link should be replaced.

I have the manual for my bike, and to remove the link, the manual states to remove the two bolts . Does the motor have to be supported? Anyone have some tips to remove the link. I do have the bike on a lift with both wheels off the ground.
Thanks all

 

Removing the upper link does NOT require the engine be supported any more than it already is by the motor mounts. Just make sure the bike is level, and NOT on the jiffy stand. You stated the bike is on a lift, and that's all you need to do. Unbolt the old one, and I'd suggest soaking the ends in wd40, or the like, rather than just replacing it. The ends should be fairly stiff, considering what it's there for. But the two bolts are it, nothing more.

 

I was thinking that they should move more freely than they do, like hime joints . From what iv read they are sperical bushing and they are not going to move easily like hime joints. So it's possible there is nothing wrong with it. I'll remove it and inspect it and if need be I'll replace it.

Thanks for the info

 

I just replaced mine last fall , I could easily move mine just with my fingers . I put the bike up on the lift and changed it , easy enough . The new one I got from the dealer is pretty stiff and almost impossible to move by hand .

 

The the upper stabilizer link parts are supposed to be very difficult to move. Don't lubricate them.

 

If you are a good fabricator, while you have it out modify it to be adjustable. When I checked my wheel alignment the rear wheel was cocked 1/4" off vertical. By lengthening the upper stabilizer is was able to correct that. I have the true track front and rear stabilizer kit installed as well. They allowed me to correct the track on the bike, which was also out (3/8"!).

 

The factory one is rubber instead of hiem joints and do wear out, best fix is to replace the rubber link with one with hiem joints on it. And, add an Alloy Art rear stabilizer while you are at it.

 

The rubber cushion makes them seem quite stiff. I would GUESS that a true Heim joint would move more easily BUT pass more vibration into the frame because there is no cushion.

 

My '14 SGS would sometimes squeak like a bitch. Hit the heim with wd40 and its gone. So I replaced the part w/ new. Dealer would have replaced the cam chest I am sure....
on edit: It would chirp like a loud bird, stop for while and start back up. Could never find it with a long cardboard tube. Seemed to move around but always on the right side of the bike.

 

My '13 E-Glide had this issue too even when it was fairly new. Took me some time to track it down. I gave it a drop of 3 in 1 oil every service which kept it quiet.