True dual or leave the stock dual exhaust ?
If I am looking for more power is doing anything basically a waste until at least a cam installation? Stage one seems like window dressing. I was considering the HD street cannons as I built the engine out and then maybe HD performance exhaust. Since it seems like the goal is to get rid of the Cat or relocate it, do you just abandon the warranty? I was pricing out stage 4 kit at the dealer and it didn't seem unreasonable compared to the cumulative mods cost over time. Sorry I am straying from the topic, just trying to resist wasting money on slips on to early.
A Stage II costs a relatively small amount more than a Stage I, and the performance increase is significant.
Replacing the head pipe and/or removing the catalytic converter will void your warranty. Aftermarket parts will void your warranty as well.
If you want to keep your warranty, you should stick with H-D parts / stage kits.
Personally, I would advise against a Stage IV. It makes the bike twitchy and borderline unrideable in regular traffic. A Stage III would be the highest I'd go if you're not going to race your bike. A Stage III is also the last big leap in performance. The gains of a Stage IV over Stage III again don't warrant the cost associated, in my humble opinion.
I rode my 2011 RK 96" with a stage 1 for a number of years and thought it was a nice seat of the pants power and throttle response improvement over stock--SE intake backplate, Fuelmoto 2-1-2 headpipe and mufflers, and Fuelmoto tune w/Dynojet powervision. Had very good mileage as well, always 52-53 mixed town/secondary highway. Avoid true duals if looking for better performance; they're just for sound.
It did run out of poop over 4K rpm, however, and while that may not sound like a big deal depending on riding style, I found passing on long grades at elevation in CO mountains was often a choice between running out of steam in a lower gear or lugging in higher gear which caused detonation/pinging at warmer ambient temps. I got a different tune from FM to address pinging, but that just backed off 2-4 degrees of timing across rpm/map range which noticeably reduced power and fuel mileage, so not a very good fix.
I guess if I were running around relatively lower elevations and/or not pulling long grades in the rockies I may never have bothered with cams, and certainly wouldn't have upped displacement to 107 (which I suspect probably wasn't worth it even from 96). Really depends on how and where you ride. With an 88" motor you're starting with a little less yet, so maybe cams and bump to 95" or 98" is more justified.
It did run out of poop over 4K rpm, however, and while that may not sound like a big deal depending on riding style, I found passing on long grades at elevation in CO mountains was often a choice between running out of steam in a lower gear or lugging in higher gear which caused detonation/pinging at warmer ambient temps. I got a different tune from FM to address pinging, but that just backed off 2-4 degrees of timing across rpm/map range which noticeably reduced power and fuel mileage, so not a very good fix.
I guess if I were running around relatively lower elevations and/or not pulling long grades in the rockies I may never have bothered with cams, and certainly wouldn't have upped displacement to 107 (which I suspect probably wasn't worth it even from 96). Really depends on how and where you ride. With an 88" motor you're starting with a little less yet, so maybe cams and bump to 95" or 98" is more justified.
Personally, I would advise against a Stage IV. It makes the bike twitchy and borderline unrideable in regular traffic. A Stage III would be the highest I'd go if you're not going to race your bike. A Stage III is also the last big leap in performance. The gains of a Stage IV over Stage III again don't warrant the cost associated, in my humble opinion.
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2020 FLHRXS 146hp 174ft-lb: Fuel Moto 128ci, CP Carrillo 10.75:1 pistons, 5.5g/s EFI
SE Heavy Breather & 64mm TB w/ Ward Manifold, Jackpot Stainless 2-1-2 w/ Hi-Rollers
Wood 22X-E cam & lifters, Dynojet PV2 w/ Target Tune, ThunderMax oil cooler fan
Feuling RS pump & plate, valve springs w/ Ti keepers, vented dipstick & cyl studs
S&S roller rockers & studs, head bolts, tappet cuffs & cam chain tensioner
Man-o-War sprocket, Barnett Lock-up clutch, Hayden M6, Carlini 16" Gangster apes
SE Heavy Breather & 64mm TB w/ Ward Manifold, Jackpot Stainless 2-1-2 w/ Hi-Rollers
Wood 22X-E cam & lifters, Dynojet PV2 w/ Target Tune, ThunderMax oil cooler fan
Feuling RS pump & plate, valve springs w/ Ti keepers, vented dipstick & cyl studs
S&S roller rockers & studs, head bolts, tappet cuffs & cam chain tensioner
Man-o-War sprocket, Barnett Lock-up clutch, Hayden M6, Carlini 16" Gangster apes
Ok , thank you all for your comments , yes I have the stock exhausts that is dual exhaust but it has the one that connects to both , I was thinking if I got true duals it would let her breath a little better and give it just a little more ooomphf if you know what I mean , not looking for a lot but just a touch
The stock camshaft is a compromise. It strives for gas mileage, emissions, smooth idle, docile power. Which isn’t inherently bad!
So you have to be as realistic as possible about what you want, and what matters to you, when picking a camshaft.
Do you want the bike to be able to idle through town? How important is drag racing vs roll on power? Additional heat, gas mileage, etc.
There are some good, mild, camshafts that increase overall power and performance. They don’t optimize high rpm power, but they do increase regular riding performance. You’ll probably lose some gas mileage with them, and you may feel more heat.
Yesterday i changed the plugs and oil. Tomorrow my stage 2 RGS goes from its stock header, with the cat, and SE slip ons to the Khrome Werks 3 step headers and Dominator 4.5" Slip ons with no fkn cat and Performance inserts
I'm looking for a big decrease in the heat and a slight increase in hp. Then it's off to Joe, one of the best dyno guys in the northeast. I'll post the dyno chart when I get it. Will discuss tuners with him. Leaning to the Power Vision.
I'm looking for a big decrease in the heat and a slight increase in hp. Then it's off to Joe, one of the best dyno guys in the northeast. I'll post the dyno chart when I get it. Will discuss tuners with him. Leaning to the Power Vision.












