Preload
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 294
Likes: 92
From: USA
Preload
Lately I notice that I feel every bump and seam in the road. Does that indicate that my preload is too high or too low? I am familiar with the table in my manual and I believe it's set appropriately for my weight and nominal luggage in my bags. That said, I was thinking about bumping up or knocking it down one to see if that helps. I'm just not sure which way to go.
I don't ride 2-up so that's not an issue.
Thanks,
I don't ride 2-up so that's not an issue.
Thanks,
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,599
Likes: 31,004
From: Pennsylvania
If they are not bottoming out then the preload is too stiff. You want the shock to travel so it absorbs the bumps. However, you can make it too soft and the bike will tend to wallow in corners.
Drop it down a couple of notches and see how it feels.
Drop it down a couple of notches and see how it feels.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,253
Likes: 11,375
From: San Diego, CA
If you want to check your preload, put a zip tie on the shock absorber shaft, and slide it against the shock body. Then go for a ride...
When you get back, the zip tie should be about 2/3s the way between the shock body and the end of the shaft...
If it is all the way to the end of the shaft, your preload is too soft, and the bumps you are feeling are the shocks bottoming out...
If it has only moved a short distance, your preload is too stiff, and the bumps you are feeling are due to the shocks being too firm, and not softening the bumps...
This video is about using a zip tie on 4x4 shocks, but the technique/theory is the same. Only these 4x4 shocks will hit the top if they bottom out. On your motorcycle, the shocks work in the opposite direction, and the zip tie will be at the bottom end of the shaft if your shocks are bottoming out..
When you get back, the zip tie should be about 2/3s the way between the shock body and the end of the shaft...
If it is all the way to the end of the shaft, your preload is too soft, and the bumps you are feeling are the shocks bottoming out...
If it has only moved a short distance, your preload is too stiff, and the bumps you are feeling are due to the shocks being too firm, and not softening the bumps...
This video is about using a zip tie on 4x4 shocks, but the technique/theory is the same. Only these 4x4 shocks will hit the top if they bottom out. On your motorcycle, the shocks work in the opposite direction, and the zip tie will be at the bottom end of the shaft if your shocks are bottoming out..
Last edited by hattitude; Aug 3, 2023 at 10:54 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 798
Likes: 726
From: Moncton, NB
If you want to check your preload, put a zip tie on the shock absorber shaft, and slide it against the shock body. Then go for a ride...
When you get back, the zip tie should be about 2/3s the way between the shock body and the end of the shaft...
If it is all the way to the end of the shaft, your preload is too soft, and the bumps you are feeling are the shocks bottoming out...
If it has only moved a short distance, your preload is too stiff, and the bumps you are feeling are due to the shocks being too firm, and not softening the bumps...
This video is about using a zip tie on 4x4 shocks, but the technique/theory is the same. Only these 4x4 shocks will hit the top if they bottom out. On your motorcycle, the shocks work in the opposite direction, and the zip tie will be at the bottom end of the shaft if your shocks are bottoming out..
When you get back, the zip tie should be about 2/3s the way between the shock body and the end of the shaft...
If it is all the way to the end of the shaft, your preload is too soft, and the bumps you are feeling are the shocks bottoming out...
If it has only moved a short distance, your preload is too stiff, and the bumps you are feeling are due to the shocks being too firm, and not softening the bumps...
This video is about using a zip tie on 4x4 shocks, but the technique/theory is the same. Only these 4x4 shocks will hit the top if they bottom out. On your motorcycle, the shocks work in the opposite direction, and the zip tie will be at the bottom end of the shaft if your shocks are bottoming out..
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 294
Likes: 92
From: USA
Thanks for all the advise. I took a critical look at all that was in my bags, weighed myself, and adjusted down 1.5 turns (from a setting of 4 to 2.5). I’m following Mrs down to a vacation house for the week. I’ll get some good ride-time in to play with it. Thanks guys,
-PH
-PH
Last edited by Parrothead1809; Aug 4, 2023 at 03:04 PM.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 2,809
Likes: 4,269
From: NC
IMO, preload is to get you in the proper range of the shock based on weight. Compression and rebound dampening are for performance and comfort. E.g. stiff for speed to keep the tires on the ground and soft for touring to aid rider comfort. As @ahhlou mentioned, compression and rebound are not adjustable on many shocks.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 294
Likes: 92
From: USA
I’m sure the price tag has at least one comma in it, but where do I start in regards to ride comfort on a ‘21 street glide? Front? Rear? Both?
I’m always riding solo, but many times in the Summer with camping gear. So, I guess adjustability depending upon load will be a requirement.
I’m always riding solo, but many times in the Summer with camping gear. So, I guess adjustability depending upon load will be a requirement.
Road Master
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 977
Likes: 343
From: Midwest
I would start in the rear, 800.00 plus then work my way to the front. depending on your weight, you can adjust the fork oil to make it a little bit better. not sure on fork springs or oil weight on a '21 also depends on miles.