As is the usual case (?) on a 99 Ultra Classic with FI, I'm tired of screwing with these leaky fuel lines. Anyone have a recommendation for fully replacing these things? Is there one? I want this problem gone! The tank check does not leak. Both lines that screw into the tank with the little "O" rings are the issue. Thanks.

 

Review Goodridge HDFL005

 

Forgive my poor reading comprehension, but I'm not sure exactly what/where the problem is...

Are you talking about leaks from the fittings, the o-rings, or the external fuel lines themselves?

Have you replaced those lines, fittings, or o-rings recently?

If not, how have you been "screwing with" the lines to stop the leaking?

In any case, the Goodrich HDFL005 suggested by im above, look like a really good option if it's the lines themselves...

 

The OEM swivel joint on the tank side fitting to upper bunge piece, has O rings that you can not replace.
Hence 1 is a sealed plug and you can not separate 27 to get to those O rings to replace them on the oem hose..


On the goodridge lines, that swivel section is retained by C clip between bunge to hole connection, so can remove C clip from what would be the tank bunge section fitting, to replace the O rings instead. (just mirrors the fittings to the manifold,where you can replace the o rings as well.

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and since you read this thread,
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ultra-fi.html/

Pull check vavles one at a time (so you don't get them backwards), replace the O rings on them(don't forget to put silicone grease on all the O ring everywhere), new 242 loctite on valve thread, thread them up by hand, until you feel O ring just start to seat, then 1/4~1/2 thread just enough to compress O ring, not over compress to rip O rig apart. Take hose off bunge fitting via C clip, grease all Its new O rings, including the one on the tip to bottom of check valve.

Then install the bunge fitting without hose to bottom of check vavle with 242 locttte on the fitting threads, then same with hand tighten until you feel the O ring just start to seat against bottom of check vavle, then 1/4~1/2 turn to lightly conpresses O ring to bottom of check vavle only.

Now install lines on manifold side of lugs (will need to remove top stabiliser bar to give you more room) with those O rings silicone greased as well, then install the tank side lines to installed tank bunge fitting in the end. The reason for this, too easy to cross thread the bunge fitting with hoses still attached to them, and when you go to intall the holes to bung fitting, twist the breaded lines so coupling goes straight up on post so you don't cut a O ring, and reinstall the C clips.

As for lines, just take a photo of old lines, and will see that front line goes under engine brace plate in front of horn, then around horn to outside and back, and rear line goes behind horn under engine brace plate to back fitting on tank (install this line first, then the front outer line second).

As for the love or Chirst, don't over torque on the check valves or the bunge fittings, since you just want the O rings to compress, not tear them apart like it a compression fitting. The other one, if you need to remove the tank, the use the C clips, and leave the bunge fittings in place.
And let the 242 have enough time to set up, and it will hold both to those light amount of torqued piece in place.

If you need more help, then either IM me or Albert64, since just talking him through the same lines install he just did to his bike, for the same reason.

 

hattitude, it's the lines that screw into the tank. I've replaced the little "O" rings several times. Stops the leaking,. Next day, leak(s) are back. So, it is replacement time. Sorry for any confusion.

 

O rings 15, or the O rings on the check valves 24 and 25, if you have leaks on them, it due to you being a savage when tighten things down,to cause the O rings to crack.

So again, Blue loctite the threads, make sure to use silicone/dielectric grease on the O rings, hand tihten to star with to just lightly compress the O rings, 1/4~1/2 more tune to put slighty more pressure on the O rings (not not enough to flatten the O rings or rip then, and give the 242 time to set up, so nothing comes back unthreaded.


Again, is O rings that are the sealing devices, not like a compression fitting that your distorting the two brass pieces to each other with a lot of torque, So stop being a savage over tightening the fittings. And to prove the point, every thing you would pull the fitting to try to solve the leak, the O rings where either cracked, or distorted/mash to hell isntead.

As for when the Oem line swivel joint at tank bunges start to leak at those O rings that you can not replace, or the lines start to fall apart for the inside out due to ethanol in the fuel that they where never rated for (and the joy of having to pull the manifold apart to clean that mess out of the injector, and pressure regulator cavity's, then its time to upgrade to the Goodridge HDFL005 lines.