I am no expert at all and most of what I have done was from the advice or input from this forum. If you are doing the work yourself, this will cost you very little and still give you a platform for further engine work if you decide to do head work. I already had the 2/1 exhaust, sert, and big sucker air intake. I did all that at 1000 miles and it helpedalot.At 10,000 miles I added a set of HQ 500 cams and boy did that wake things up. I did justchange my big sucker outto a heavy breather but that was not a necessity. I still want just a bit morepull at take off and I have ordered a 30 tooth drive sprocket which should give me what I am looking for withoutgoing into a full motor build.Not to get into a numbers thing (because I am more interested in the feel andride performance) but for a reference I should end up around 95 hp at the wheel and 94+ tq. With the sprocket change it will bring my gearing down a bit fora more usable5th and 6th gear. The cams and drive sprocket could be had for under 700 bucks if you are doing the work. This would set you up real nice for now with out breaking the bank. I hope this helps you out.

Or you could just say UNCLE now and dp a 120 build as we all know.... it will happen at some point .... UNLESS YOU LEAVE THIS FORUM NOW AND NEVER LOOK BACK

 

I would look at head quarters, GMR performance, and BigBoyz headporting. These are just a few but I have talked to all of them and they are all stand up guys that really know their stuff. To get the power where you want it, I am assuming right around 100/100, you will probably be looking at a mild street port job on the heads and a valve job, possibly higher compression pistons,and a cam somewhere i the neighborhood of 510-525 lift. There are a myriad of cams in these specs so the guy who does the head work will tune the heads and compression to the cam you choose. Good reliable HP can be had out of a 95" motor for a reasonable cash outlay say 1200-1500 for the parts. If you are handy with a wrench you can save a ton of money doing the work yourself, a topend rebuild and cams is pretty simple when armed with manual. Good luck on your build.

 

wow! You guys are very helpful... now I've got to read and talk... heading in for some back surgery on Wed so I'll be out of riding for a bit; but hope to be ready by the time the buds break here in PA. I'll try some local shops that are good.... I gues that will kill my HD warranty?

 

From a stage I , I'd suggest a big bore and cams first , as $$ alllow getheadwork.
Ideally it's better to do it all at once as you save on labor , and you can have heads and cams matched. I did a stage I 88to Stage IV 95 ( bb kit/heads/gear drive cams/pipes) on my Dyna and it was a wonderful difference , but over $4K.

This time around I did a 103 stage II , and it makes the bagger much more entertaining. No issues with 2 up, adequate smooth reliable power.

 

thanks, did you do the stage II with SE parts at your dealer? wht kind of Dyno did you get? 2 up is my major concern. thanks, J

 

My bike is setup with "Screamin Eagle" performance parts. The only thing aftermarket non-HD parts would have done is empty my wallet faster. Without a 120" engine under the tank, parts other than SE (other than cams or exhaust of course) would have been overkill. You can order the SE parts you need for a GREAT build from Zanotti's or Chicago HD (or Ebay if you know what you're doing) for huge discounts. As far as work (labor) from a HD shop, Wally and I totally agree. Of course, I can't speak for others here as I only havethat little 95" engine.

 

Save your money till the Factory Warrenty is done( such as it is ... the warrenty that is ) and ask plenty of questions when riding with othes who you think maybe are out performing you.
That should give you an idea where to start and where to go with your build.
Find a good Mechanic/techie at the shop of your choice and stick with them....
Just my .02 from the Great White North.
Hope the Back surgery is an easy mend in time for the Summer Ridding Season.

Cheers,
Rob