I replaced the fuel lines 61470-99 and 61471-95 about 14 months ago because they were leaking. The old ones were not rebuildable, the new ones are leaking and have o-rings. I replaced the o-rings on both ends of the fuel lines. But when I pulled the banjos off and unscrewed the fittings that screwed into the outside of the bottom of the tank the return side kept dripping gas onto the floor board. My guess is the check valve inside the tank must be clogged holding it open? Its only on the low pressure return side. I have the tank off so I thought i might as well check the check valves inside the tank. It must be the crappy Calif gas because those o-rings were cracked and knicked. They were new 14 months ago!!! This is on a 99 Roadking

 

Those particular lines have always been "problem children" on the MM EFI system, but usually last much longer than 14-months. I have a 2000 and am on the second set of lines. The next set I purchase will be the Goodridge lines and they attach to the tank with banjo-fittings like they do on the fuel rail. The PN for those is HDFL005 and I think it will end the problem. I have built a set of lines for other folks from stainless steel fittings, which is one way to do it, but I think the best thing to do is spring for the Goodridge lines.

 

For those of us still running the MM EFI systems, we know by now that these lines are prone to leak at the tank-to-hose connection. Not only just leak....if the feed line goes....it SPEWS under some 42-pounds of pressure. It is usually the internal o-ring up in the nut that you cannot fix, short of a new hose...which is not a good thing out in the desert at night.

I have a set of the Goodridge HDFL005 lines that I plan to install...when I get around to it, but I also carry an "emergency fuel line fix kit" with me wherever I go. I dreamed this up a few years ago when I had one leak on a trip and things got real ugly. You will ruin the hose when you make this fix, but the hose is ruined if it is leaking anyway. I have performed this fix for some guys that run it as standard equipment and have never had to purchase another fuel line.

I am attaching two pictures. One with the parts not assembled and one assembled unit. The trick is to simply cut the leaking line as close as possible at the factory crimp....remove the leaking fuel nut and install this gizmo. The cut-end of the fuel line will slide up over the nipple and can be clamped in place. You screw the modified nut in the tank first, then the 90-degree elbow, then the nipple...then the hose.

Just like my VISA....I never leave home without it. If somebody wants one...PM me and I will tell you what I can do for you, or just figure it out on your own.

 

1-Is the modified fuel line nut a recycled part? since the original has no internal thread on bottom. Did you create/ cut some threads or did you purchase, and if purchased what is size 3/4 on top and bottom internal thread of 1/4?
http://www.jegs.com/c/Fuel-Carbs-Int...10019/10002/-1
2-about the barb: is that 1/8 the inside diameter of rubber hose?

 

The tank fittings are not 3/4" they are 18mm x 1.50. I know because I cross threaded the low pressure return line installing it back on the tank of my 96 FLHTCI. Had to have the tank side threads cleaned up with a tap. I also replaced the lines with the Goodridge HDFL005. They are same as original (they are not banjo fittings on both ends) but they are chrome and shielded and you get both for the price of one harley replacement...

 

18mm X 1.50, thanks

 

Yep...they are metric. Harley always does what they can to come up with off the wall or hard to find fittings....so they get that "repeat business".

All I did was take a bad line and cut it off even with the bottom of the nut. Drill that out (and dig out the debris left inside the hole) and tap it out to a 1/8 NPT. Clean it all up real good with an air gun, or whatever. You need that short elbow fitting, because the room is not there to easily install a 90-degree barb fitting. That short elbow is 1/8 NPT on both ends. Male screws into the nut and turn the female end toward the fuel line. Then...install the 1/8 NPT barb fitting (or one of the normal spigot ended Harley fittings will also work) into the female output of the short elbow. That will line it all up directly with the section of old fuel line, which is either a 1/4 inside diameter or 5/16....don't remember, but I will measure it and see and post it tomorrow and post the size of the barb needed, but I think it's 5/16.

You can use a regular ear stepless clamp like found on other lines on the bike or a worm-gear clamp...which I don't like. The normal MM fuel pressure is 41-or-so pounds and those stepless clamps are rated for 50 pounds. Put two on there if you want to, but it won't leak. You will have just enough slack in the hose to get it up over the barbed end. Don't be too concerned about vibration, because the fuel rail side of the line is flexible enough to absorb that.

I have done a few of these and used stainless steel fittings with a AN5 output and had an AN 5 male nut installed on the old fuel line. That is surely a final fix for this leak....looks good and also gives you the ability to easily remove the AN fitting for tank removal.

You can do all sorts of things to plumb this up and make it look better than what I have pictured above. The above is what it is.....an "emergency" fix. You can get the short elbows in chrome and the spigot fitting in chrome as well. They are all the same sort of fittings you find on the older EVO oil pumps, etc. The brass ones are cheaper, but you can think of all kind of ways to dress this up. The way the MOCO made this connection exhibits the degree of stupidity they will go to to try and make things complicated and un-fixable. I realize they were looking for a flexible line that can be removed from the tank rather easily, but they could have came up with something a lot simpler.......I DID. I don't take my tank off every weekend and if I have to with this fitting on there....just cut the clamp on the hose and reverse the process.

 

Thank you,
I saved the information. May help myself or another rider in the future.

 

Can you provide a source for the "modified fuel line nut"?

 

As promised....I went out to double-check the fitting and hose sizes: The fuel line size (ID) is 5/16, so you will need a 1/8 NPTM pipe thread on the end that screws into the short elbow and a 5/16 barb size. I am also sure that a 1/4 would work, but I have brain cells dying every day and all of you that have not hit 60 yet....will realize what I mean when you get there.

Just BE SURE to cut the old line as close as possible to the crimped fitting to be able to have enough to pull over the barb fitting and get a clamp on it. Make sure you have a long barb fitting. I know you have enough to pull over there and get clamped on the fitting. Remember....this is an emergency temporary fix until you can get a new hose on and you are not going to a bike show. It would not hurt to put a 5/16 short splicing barb fitting and a few inches of 5/16 hose and a couple of extra clamps in the tool kit just in case you cut it too short and need to splice a section in. The EFI line should be rated for 150 psi. Regular run-of-the-mill rubber line is rated at 50 psi and should work in a tight. The fuel pressure is not going to be much over 40-psi....as I have already mentioned.

lars...the source for the adapter nut is in-shop. All you need is an old hose. Whack the bayonet portion of the line that enters the bottom of the nut even with the nut. You will not be able to pull the thing out of there There is an internal retaining ring that captures the bayonet end when it is plugged into the nut. Drill a hole right in through the leftover piece of the original bayonet to accommodate a 1/8 x 27 NPT tap. Take a pick, or similar tool and dig the o-ring out and whatever other left over debris from the drilling operation is in there. Tap the hole with a 1/8 NPT x 27 tap. You can run the drill bit and the tap well up into the nut. As long as you do not pierce the very nose of the nut. It can be a PITA to dig all the junk out of that hole, but it can be done.

If anybody wants one...I will build you one if you send me an old hose, but I don't expect to loose any money on the deal and this is certainly not an add for a cottage industry. I will help a few of you out that way if you need me to. Just PM me.