had to remove tank, when i put it back on the fuel lines leak. replaced the O rings but still leaks when fuel pump pressurizes. if im doing something wrong i dont know what it is. any help appreciated.

 

I had a similar problem on my '01 Road King. I had the MM fuel injection and there are two lines, one supply, one return. My supply line kept leaking and I had to drain the tank and change the fitting that came through the tank. It's not hard, just a pain. I tried changinging the "O" rings but that didn't work.

 

exactly were are you leaking???
If between nut just under the tank and swivel on hose the answer is the hoses are giving up the ghost and replacement is the answer..
sit down and call HD shop listen to them tell you it is now a new number and it is $360 for the two hoses...then go to J and P cycle and look at the braided hoses for your M and M model..i think it is $150-$160 for both..
this also came -up about a month ago on the forum..
or it could be something else..but hoses are rather common..

 

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...need-help.html

 

some more reading:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...jected-rk.html

 

I had posted some information on this subject yesterday...but I guess it went off into la-la land....or maybe it was on another forum?

I mentioned about the same thing that IM and RKC did. Harley tries to find obscene and complicated hose connections so you have to go purchase theirs...or so they think. The Goodridge HDFL005 is a good fix, but I have discovered other ways to do it. I have fixed a few with some fittings and a slightly customized hose end that will eliminate the problem FOREVER. I still have the stock hoses on mine from the last replacement, but since I fully expect them to leak again...I carry my "fix" components in my tool kit you I can make repairs on the road if I have to.
It involves taking the old nut on the tank end of the hose and tapping a 1/8th. NPT hole in the bottom...then install an AN adapter to convert it to a #4 or #5 AN hose fitting. Go have a #4 or #5 AN connection crimped on the end of the fuel line and your home free. You still have the necessary slack for the vibration. You could actually use a 1/8th. NPT 90-degree hose end and clamp the hose on the barb and be okay. You are dealing with around 40-psi max and the ear clamps are rated for 50-psi. You would just have to remove the ear clamp if you had to remove the tank, but that is no big deal either. This works either way...with the AN fitting for easy removal or the clamp...I usually use two ear clamps which can be had by the bag in stainless steel from any Lowe's or Home Depot. Don't be concerned about the flow....the opening in the check valves inside the tank are not much bigger than a pencil-lead, so an #4 AN fitting is big enough.

 

i went through all this also i replaced the check valves in the tank and all the o ring then i got the leak when it preassurizes. i got the fuel lines going to put them on tomarrow hope it solves my problem

 

Did you get the stock lines or the Goodridge lines some of us were talking about above? Just changing the o-ring on the nose of the tank fittings generally don't solve the problem. There is an o-ring inside the "captive" part of the stock fitting that is prone to leak and you can't fix the stock hose. One it is assembled...it does not come apart again to get to that internal o-ring.

The Goodridge lines convert the tank fittings to banjo fittings like the ones on the fuel rail.

 

What do the check valves in the tank look like and do you have a part #?

 

You will have to pull the tank to get to the valves. They are brass conical shaped little critters that screw-in under the hose connection into the tank after you have the hoses removed. You will need a wide-blade screwdriver, but I made a tool to remove them from an old paddle drill-bit. They can be a bit hard to remove and if you do pull them, you can likely clean them up and check the operation. It's just a housing with a spring holding a small rubber ball in place.

If the bike was running, but the lines only leaking, they are probably okay. The check valves would not have caused the leak. If they are clogged or stuck, I think it would show-up as no fuel flow or low fuel pressure. I don't think they are causing the leak. The o-ring on the nose of the hose seats in the base of these check-valves.

It depends on where the leak is coming from. If it's on the outside of the hose fitting, could be the o-ring on the end of the hose or the o-ring on the end of the check valve. If it is leaking "through" the hose connection between the nut and the bayonet....it's the o-ring inside the hose, which cannot be replaced. When you assemble the hose, it captures the bayonet end in the nut and you cannot pull it apart again.

I will look-up the valve PN and let you know if you want to pull and change them.