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Enclosed Trailer Interior Questions

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  #21  
Old 03-26-2010, 07:27 AM
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All good ideas....Now it's time for me to start getting set-up for some long hauls.

I sure wish the price of gas would come down. I was getting 17 to 18 mpg with my truck without the trailer. I bet my mileage will suck when pulling the trailer. Time will tell....
 
  #22  
Old 03-26-2010, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by msbhvn
With the strapless system, do you remove the bar each time you unload and is there any damage to the paint on the frame?

put on outside the trailer ride it up... take it off after backing out of the trailer... NO damage to frame... super easy....
 
  #23  
Old 03-26-2010, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 2harleys
I have two of these in my enclosed 7X14 trailer. I have wheel chocks installed also. In my opinion, you can not buy a better and easier tie down system. Not exactly cheap, but neither is the bike you are hauling. http://www.bikersgostrapless.com/
So do you use both the wheel chocks and the frame mount device at the same time? Do you use tie down straps? I have the condors in my trailer but I am curious if you use both at the same time? Maybe this would be similar to "blocking the frame"?
 
  #24  
Old 03-26-2010, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Retrax
So do you use both the wheel chocks and the frame mount device at the same time? Do you use tie down straps? I have the condors in my trailer but I am curious if you use both at the same time? Maybe this would be similar to "blocking the frame"?
I can't answer for the member that is using "Two" However, The only reason to also use a wheel chock is to have a target to drive to and hold the front wheel straight - the maker of the system says the wheel chock is NOT needed but may be helpful if the bike owner wants to help keep the wheel straight.. but it is NOT needed - the bike is held at mid frame and is very solid

to the OP - sorry if this topic is getting 'off' not meaning to hyjack this thread..

Straps are NOT needed with the Roberts Products - We humans are hard to change old habits so, some may still use them as safteys but they are NOT needed..
 
  #25  
Old 03-26-2010, 11:22 AM
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Don't buy the cheap tie-down straps. I have a Condor chock which is great. I have found it really stabilizes the bike if I tie the front wheel to the upright post of the chock by running a strap through the front wheel and around the post. Once it is cinched down the bike is stable. I also use 4 tie-down straps (1.5 inch wide versions). I like the idea of E-track - it's hard to find tie down point on an ultra that are away from plastic / paint. I have a 7x14 and put a small shelf on the side door to hold the straps when not in use. If you do this make sure you mount the shelf high on the door. Enjoy.
 
  #26  
Old 03-26-2010, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by harley0711
I can't answer for the member that is using "Two" However, The only reason to also use a wheel chock is to have a target to drive to and hold the front wheel straight - the maker of the system says the wheel chock is NOT needed but may be helpful if the bike owner wants to help keep the wheel straight.. but it is NOT needed - the bike is held at mid frame and is very solid

to the OP - sorry if this topic is getting 'off' not meaning to hyjack this thread..

Straps are NOT needed with the Roberts Products - We humans are hard to change old habits so, some may still use them as safteys but they are NOT needed..
Not a hyjack!......this is good info and a good discussion.
 
  #27  
Old 03-26-2010, 12:30 PM
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By all means make sure you have big *** HARLEY DAVIDSON logos on all corners. You wouldnt want to confuse a would be thief about the trailers contents. Dont skimp on straps!
 
  #28  
Old 03-26-2010, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DTTJGlide
Even with the locking chock I would tie down bike with 4 straps, not sure which way to to interpret Leftcoaster's reply. The locking chocks are nice because you can run the bike into one & it will keep the bike steady while you tie it down, I've never tried to block the bike, not sure I like that idea, you shouldn't have any problem if it's tied down tight with 4 straps.

When I rigged my trailer locking chocks weren't available. I used E-track and tie down with 4 straps (2 front, 2 rear) and a rear wheel chock. The block goes under the frame so you can pull the bike down onto it to avoid suspension rebound. When finished the bike is tied down solid and the suspension won't travel either up or down. Been using this concept for 30+ years with no failures.
If I were rigging my trailer now that strapless system is definitely the way I'd go.
 

Last edited by Leftcoaster; 03-26-2010 at 12:40 PM.
  #29  
Old 03-26-2010, 11:35 PM
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Not saying using the block is not a good idea, but the only reason to cinch down to a block is to keep it from bouncing so much and loosening the straps, straps coming off, bike falling over. With a condor (or clone) this is not an issue. It ain't gonna bounce enough to come out of the condor. I've never had a strap come loose, don't cinch down hard enough to collapse the suspension, and don't use a block. No doubt the "Roberts" deal is probably the best way to go, also kinda pricey!
 
  #30  
Old 03-27-2010, 12:35 AM
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I got a 6x12 and don't use it to haul my bike normally, just for storage. When I hauled it home the first time the trailer didn't have a chock but had rings in the floor. So I just had to put the bike in gear and strap the **** out of it. The bike didn't move. I since have added a chock and loosely strap with tie downs just to keep it upright since the trailer doesn't move. I also put the jiffy stand down (for what reason I dunno).

As far as shelving I have a track system but cant think of the name. Have 2 tracks about 4 foot long on one side at the front. Has a good sized wire basket and some hooks that are perfect for helmets or whatever.
 


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