Need Handlebar advice from those of you that have had shoulder pain.
#1
Need Handlebar advice from those of you that have had shoulder pain.
Well I just got back from a 3100 mile trip on my 2010 Ultra Classic.This was my first true test of riding some distance and here is what I experienced.I'm 5'7 with a 30 inch inseam and 34 inch sleeve.After riding for a while I got a burning like pain at the base of my neck in the center.I guess you could also say at the top of my shoulder blades in the center.I am using the stock low seat with a Mustang backrest which I will probably replace at a later date. I remember reading where someone talked about riding with one hand to get some relief from the pain. Ok I started doing that and I did get relief when sitting straighter up so I know I want bars up a little higher and back towards me. I also tried riding with my hands holding on to the tops of the mirrors just to get a feel for the extra height.I'm thinking I should keep my hands at the top of the fairing but not above it.My first thought is 10' bagger bars from Wild One's.I have also looked at 12 1/2 inch Wild One's which will put my hands slightly above the fairing. Someone said Harley Heritage bars are really comfortable but I'm thinking they probably don't fit a bagger.I would sure like to hear from some of you that have made changes in your bars.Also what cable changes are necessary with 10' compared to 12 1/2 inch. If anyone has pictures of their bikes with different types of bars installed that would be great. I'm wanting to see some Khromewerks,Cyclesmith,WildOne's and anything else that might be a possibility. As always I thank you for your comments.
Last edited by C908; 07-29-2011 at 08:10 PM. Reason: Asking for photo's to be added.
#2
I made the change on my 09 SG from stock bars to the WO575 Wild 1 Chubby's. This was because of the same problem you are having. You definitely need more pullback for the neck and height for the shoulders. A buddy of mine went to apes to eliminate his shoulder pain (he suffers from a shoulder injury that occurred years ago). The WO575's will give you 10" bars with 2" extra inches of pullback. If you choose this bar, you will need to order the 15" upper brake line, unless your brake line is one piece from the master cylinder to the ABS module. If that is the case, you will need to order the mid line and the upper line. The upper line is the only line that changes in length. The mid line stays the same for whatever bars you use. The clutch cable will have to be extended 2" as well.
#3
Lots of guys seem to like the WO bars. I'm sure you'll get good responses here.
I was looking for more rise and pullback as well. Had sharp pain in my shoulder blades from reaching forward and down for the stock bars after I swapped seats (moved me back 3"). I did a lot of research, and went with these bars in black. Stock brake line works, but needed a +4" clutch cable.
http://www.helibars.com/product/hori...d-street-glide
They're different looking (in a good way I think) and are very adjustable. Kind of pricey, but since it's kind of a hassle to change bars on a fairing bike, I like knowing I can adjust them if needed for any future seat/shield changes. I have the bars set up so my hands are mostly behind the fairing.
You might also see if your local dealer has a bar/shield fitting station set up...
I was looking for more rise and pullback as well. Had sharp pain in my shoulder blades from reaching forward and down for the stock bars after I swapped seats (moved me back 3"). I did a lot of research, and went with these bars in black. Stock brake line works, but needed a +4" clutch cable.
http://www.helibars.com/product/hori...d-street-glide
They're different looking (in a good way I think) and are very adjustable. Kind of pricey, but since it's kind of a hassle to change bars on a fairing bike, I like knowing I can adjust them if needed for any future seat/shield changes. I have the bars set up so my hands are mostly behind the fairing.
You might also see if your local dealer has a bar/shield fitting station set up...
Last edited by jpglide; 07-29-2011 at 02:43 PM.
#4
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Definitely want to come further back and up a little to get rid of that burning pain at the base of your neck.
Good way to tell where is most comfortable is to sit on the bike, feet on the floorboards. Have someone hold the bike up, or put a spacer under your jiffy so you are close to level. Close your eyes and put your hands out to where they are comfortable. Open your eyes, that is where you want your bars to be.
On my RK and Sporty it was an easy fix for me. Apes did the trick. 16" on the King, needed all new cables, wiring extensions and brake line. 12" on the sporty with 3" riser extensions, was able to use stock cables and replace only the brakeline.
On my Ultra with the batwing fairing it was more difficult. I could not find any bars that put my hands where they were most comfortable.
So I made a set of bars 7" taller than stock. Got an 8" over clutch cable and brakeline. Extended the wires. Perfect.
Kevin
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Good way to tell where is most comfortable is to sit on the bike, feet on the floorboards. Have someone hold the bike up, or put a spacer under your jiffy so you are close to level. Close your eyes and put your hands out to where they are comfortable. Open your eyes, that is where you want your bars to be.
On my RK and Sporty it was an easy fix for me. Apes did the trick. 16" on the King, needed all new cables, wiring extensions and brake line. 12" on the sporty with 3" riser extensions, was able to use stock cables and replace only the brakeline.
On my Ultra with the batwing fairing it was more difficult. I could not find any bars that put my hands where they were most comfortable.
So I made a set of bars 7" taller than stock. Got an 8" over clutch cable and brakeline. Extended the wires. Perfect.
Kevin
HDForums Scavenger Hunt Contest
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Kevin
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#6
I was looking for more rise and pullback as well. Had sharp pain in my shoulder blades from reaching forward and down for the stock bars after I swapped seats (moved me back 3"). I did a lot of research, and went with these bars in black. Stock brake line works, but needed a +4" clutch cable.
http://www.helibars.com/product/hori...d-street-glide
They're different looking (in a good way I think) and are very adjustable. Kind of pricey, but since it's kind of a hassle to change bars on a fairing bike, I like knowing I can adjust them if needed for any future seat/shield changes. I have the bars set up so my hands are mostly behind the fairing...
http://www.helibars.com/product/hori...d-street-glide
They're different looking (in a good way I think) and are very adjustable. Kind of pricey, but since it's kind of a hassle to change bars on a fairing bike, I like knowing I can adjust them if needed for any future seat/shield changes. I have the bars set up so my hands are mostly behind the fairing...
Helibars had a display at Laconia and were doing the installations as well. What sold me on them is that you can't end up with the wrong bars if you buy them. If you don't like the position, adjust em! If you get a new seat, adjust em! Yea, they are expensive, but you will never have to buy another set of bars IMO. My install kept all the stock cables, so that was a plus.
Whichever way you go find yourself a solution that works for you. Riding like that is no fun!
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