Starter issues - need help!
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 265
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From: Mandeville, Louisiana
Starter issues - need help!
When I tried to start my 2007 FLHRS this morning the starter switch did not work. I searched the forums for help and so far I have:
Made sure battery is OK.
Battery cables are tight.
Relay switch is OK.
Starter switch OK - I think. When I hit the switch I hear a barely audible click which I assume is the relay switch.
So I guess that leaves the solenoid and starter motor. The SM says I need the Electrical Diagnostic Manual to perform a test. I only have the Service & the Parts Manuals. Can someone on here tell me how to test the solenoid and the starter?
Thanks.
Barry
Made sure battery is OK.
Battery cables are tight.
Relay switch is OK.
Starter switch OK - I think. When I hit the switch I hear a barely audible click which I assume is the relay switch.
So I guess that leaves the solenoid and starter motor. The SM says I need the Electrical Diagnostic Manual to perform a test. I only have the Service & the Parts Manuals. Can someone on here tell me how to test the solenoid and the starter?
Thanks.
Barry
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
the solenoid is the same design as a chevy- ever done one of those?
IF battery truly is good- ( were you able to load test it?)
you should be able to turn on the lights, hit the starter switch and they stay bright--- or keep a reading near 12 volts on the meter.
if not, go solve that first.
A near dead battery can show 12 VDC when it is not doing anything, but when something is turned on, drops to 8 or lower ( it can't supply any current "CCA")
check battery cables at the other ends- to the frame and to the solenoid?
if all this is good, try smacking the solenoid, just in case something is hung up while you are presssing the starter button. ( like a pressure washer got water in there to rust the moving mechanism). use a rag to protect the finish, use a wooden hammer handle or similar.
IF you know how the solenoid works, you can short across the terminals to bypass the solenoid and apply power right to the starter.
this throws spark, no gas leaks!
( there is an after market solenoid end cover which has a plunger which does just that--- great for choppers as it does away with the starter switch relay wiring etc.--- and a nice easy fix if there is a problem you don't wanna tackle)
if none of that does it, then we maybe have to pull the starter and solenoid, which is covered in the manual.
inside the solenoid is a metal contact disc- if this pits and carbons up, it needs cleaning ( and pitting, carbon is made worse by a low battery) if too messed up, just like a chevy, you just turn the disc over to the unused side and continue.
that is most common fault. so far cost is zero.
The starter usually will last forever, the only thing that'll really kill them is applying voltage when it isn't turning... you would hear a whine as the windings heat up and get ready to burn through.
Try the first couple of things and post back.
mike
IF battery truly is good- ( were you able to load test it?)
you should be able to turn on the lights, hit the starter switch and they stay bright--- or keep a reading near 12 volts on the meter.
if not, go solve that first.
A near dead battery can show 12 VDC when it is not doing anything, but when something is turned on, drops to 8 or lower ( it can't supply any current "CCA")
check battery cables at the other ends- to the frame and to the solenoid?
if all this is good, try smacking the solenoid, just in case something is hung up while you are presssing the starter button. ( like a pressure washer got water in there to rust the moving mechanism). use a rag to protect the finish, use a wooden hammer handle or similar.
IF you know how the solenoid works, you can short across the terminals to bypass the solenoid and apply power right to the starter.
this throws spark, no gas leaks!
( there is an after market solenoid end cover which has a plunger which does just that--- great for choppers as it does away with the starter switch relay wiring etc.--- and a nice easy fix if there is a problem you don't wanna tackle)
if none of that does it, then we maybe have to pull the starter and solenoid, which is covered in the manual.
inside the solenoid is a metal contact disc- if this pits and carbons up, it needs cleaning ( and pitting, carbon is made worse by a low battery) if too messed up, just like a chevy, you just turn the disc over to the unused side and continue.
that is most common fault. so far cost is zero.
The starter usually will last forever, the only thing that'll really kill them is applying voltage when it isn't turning... you would hear a whine as the windings heat up and get ready to burn through.
Try the first couple of things and post back.
mike
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 265
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From: Mandeville, Louisiana
Thanks for replying, Mike. I am not familiar with a Chevy solenoid. I did not load test the battery but all the lights were very bright. I put a multimeter on it and it read 12.77. I tested it when all the lights were on and I tried the starter switch and it read 12.26. The starter, of course, did not do anything. Do you think my best bet would be to pull the battery and take it to Autozone for a load test? If you think the battery is OK I will try smacking the solenoid like you said. I really don't know how a solenoid works but I will follow your directions.
Thanks again!
Thanks again!
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 265
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From: Mandeville, Louisiana
Just for kicks I went out and smacked the solenoid with a wooden handle several times. Guess what? I hit the starter switch and it started right up. Now, what do I need to do to fix this? Or should I just carry a wooden handle with me wherever I go?
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 14,744
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From: Phoenix '53, '88, '09 Big Twins
if you had a peg leg this wouldn't be a problem.
this is more likely to happen when hot--- try to keep water away when washing the bike, and it'll probably work itself out.
when washing, no pressure washers! bike cold, cover intake and exhaust with bags to keep water out, try not to be too heavy spraying water into electrical areas or bearings ( like wheels bearings)
(battery good, switch, relay and wiring all good---- just crud in the solenoid)
Mike
this is more likely to happen when hot--- try to keep water away when washing the bike, and it'll probably work itself out.
when washing, no pressure washers! bike cold, cover intake and exhaust with bags to keep water out, try not to be too heavy spraying water into electrical areas or bearings ( like wheels bearings)
(battery good, switch, relay and wiring all good---- just crud in the solenoid)
Mike
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 265
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From: Mandeville, Louisiana
I never have used a pressure washer to wash my bike but don't know about the previous owner. I've had it now for over a year and I've only washed it 2 times with a hose. I usually "dry wash" it. So do you think I should just ignore the issue? Thanks for your help. This forum is great.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 17,547
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From: Oxford, Nc
Excellent advice mk! And that click when you first tried to start it may have come from the relay. They go bad once in awhile, and once in awhile will start working again.
Locate it for future reference.
Locate it for future reference.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Oxford, Nc
That is true, I said it wrong. I had a 98 Ultra that required me to tap the relay a bit to get the bike to start, but only once in awhile. Finally, I bought a new relay.