Tips: Changing bars on touring bikes

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Oct 25, 2011 | 04:52 PM

#21

Jon 2005 Road King

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Joined: Mar 2010

Posts: 93

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Quote:

Originally Posted by clarkchriston

... find an old allen wrench of the correct size and cut the hook end closer to longer end. That way you can get to the two tranny inspection cover bolts behind the right side exhaust and wont need to remove the exhaust.

Oh daaaaum! Wish I had thought of that. Removing that exhaust was a biatch! (and there is still a patch of cooked blood on the inside of my pipe that I never cleaned... can you say knuckle-buster?)

Oct 25, 2011 | 04:54 PM

#22

IAMSWUTIAMS

Extreme HDF Member

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 18,664

Likes: 16

From: San Diego, Mexifornia

Quote:

Originally Posted by DocO

I believe tank removal is only needed if you have ABS. The module is located under the seat and that's the brake line you'll need to replace is from the bar to that module.

Ohhh............thanks

Oct 25, 2011 | 06:21 PM

#23

Sol

Tourer

Joined: Jul 2006

Posts: 447

Likes: 2

From: Sooner Central

Adding to SG Dave's mention of poly bushings for higher bars - poly riser bushings work well for lower bars too. Also, upgrade the riser clamp - you don't want those new bars slipping around.

Last edited by Sol; Oct 25, 2011 at 09:43 PM.

Oct 25, 2011 | 08:49 PM

#24

Bill03E

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 2,403

Likes: 20

From: Indy

When I did my bars last winter, I pulled the heat shields off the y, then loosened the clamp to the front pipe, and backed off the y at the head,and starter, undid the mount at the trans, put a block between the trans exhaust bracket, and used a long ball allen socket , and didn't have to take the exhaust off, but after typing all of these steps, I wonder if it was worth it.

Nov 8, 2011 | 12:15 PM

#25

gr8bigdude

6th Gear

Joined: Feb 2010

Posts: 14

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From: Somewhere South

Nov 18, 2011 | 06:31 PM

#26

Weekender1969

Cruiser

Joined: Jun 2011

Posts: 129

Likes: 0

From: Weston, MO

Quote:

Originally Posted by grbrown

I have simply suggested that before changing bars we should try to get the best out of those we have. I have owned Harleys for almost 40 years and most of those I have test rode over that time had the bars set too high for me, including those I have bought. It is easy to adjust bars a few times before changing them, to see if we can get comfortable with them. I've been riding my Glide for over 20 years with stock bars, including extended touring holidays, in complete comfort. New bars are no more a guarantee to improved comfort than those already on the bike! Surely that is not difficult to fathom?!

Not difficult for me to fathom at all, mostly cause I'm a cheapo!!!

But I am wondering if you or anyone for that matter, can give me some instructions on how to do it?

I just bought a Shark and I lean forward to much, would like to lean back a bit more.

My brother told me I need to get heritage bars for the glide and I would be more comfortable. Myself, I am guessing aftermarkets would be better. I was very comfortable on the Heritage I traded in so he may be right???

But if I can get what I need from what I got, that's even better

Thanks

Nov 18, 2011 | 07:48 PM

#27

stewy1200c

Road Captain

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 569

Likes: 7

From: Massachusetts

Quote:

Originally Posted by gr8bigdude

+1 subscribe

Nov 18, 2011 | 07:55 PM

#28

vduzin12

Cruiser

Joined: Sep 2011

Posts: 194

Likes: 0

From: california

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Nov 21, 2011 | 03:42 AM

#29

grbrown

Club Member

Joined: Jun 2007

Posts: 45,429

Likes: 2,898

From: Bedford UK

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weekender1969

Thanks

My advice is to get a factory service manual. Getting to the handlebar clamps (to adjust the bars or change them for different ones) involves getting behind the fairing and that will be different for batwings and sharks. The bars are in two clamps, which when the screws are slackened lets them swing towards or away from you.

This is the sort of job that is best done with a buddy and some beer, to celebrate when it is all back together again! One of you can hold onto the bars to keep them in position, while the other slackens the clamping screws. If you try to do it on your own there is a risk the bars will move suddenly so you aren't sure where they were! Also while you sit on the bike and hold the bars where you want to try them, he can nip the clamps up so the bars stay in place.

Doing it first time will take quite a while, it is not a five minute job, but it will be quicker and easier next time you want to make further adjustments.