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Tips: Changing bars on touring bikes

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  #21  
Old 10-25-2011, 04:52 PM
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Originally Posted by clarkchriston
... find an old allen wrench of the correct size and cut the hook end closer to longer end. That way you can get to the two tranny inspection cover bolts behind the right side exhaust and wont need to remove the exhaust.
Oh daaaaum! Wish I had thought of that. Removing that exhaust was a biatch! (and there is still a patch of cooked blood on the inside of my pipe that I never cleaned... can you say knuckle-buster?)
 
  #22  
Old 10-25-2011, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DocO
I believe tank removal is only needed if you have ABS. The module is located under the seat and that's the brake line you'll need to replace is from the bar to that module.
Ohhh............thanks
 
  #23  
Old 10-25-2011, 06:21 PM
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Adding to SG Dave's mention of poly bushings for higher bars - poly riser bushings work well for lower bars too. Also, upgrade the riser clamp - you don't want those new bars slipping around.
 

Last edited by Sol; 10-25-2011 at 09:43 PM.
  #24  
Old 10-25-2011, 08:49 PM
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When I did my bars last winter, I pulled the heat shields off the y, then loosened the clamp to the front pipe, and backed off the y at the head,and starter, undid the mount at the trans, put a block between the trans exhaust bracket, and used a long ball allen socket , and didn't have to take the exhaust off, but after typing all of these steps, I wonder if it was worth it.
 
  #25  
Old 11-08-2011, 12:15 PM
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  #26  
Old 11-18-2011, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
I have simply suggested that before changing bars we should try to get the best out of those we have. I have owned Harleys for almost 40 years and most of those I have test rode over that time had the bars set too high for me, including those I have bought. It is easy to adjust bars a few times before changing them, to see if we can get comfortable with them. I've been riding my Glide for over 20 years with stock bars, including extended touring holidays, in complete comfort. New bars are no more a guarantee to improved comfort than those already on the bike! Surely that is not difficult to fathom?!
Not difficult for me to fathom at all, mostly cause I'm a cheapo!!!

But I am wondering if you or anyone for that matter, can give me some instructions on how to do it?

I just bought a Shark and I lean forward to much, would like to lean back a bit more.

My brother told me I need to get heritage bars for the glide and I would be more comfortable. Myself, I am guessing aftermarkets would be better. I was very comfortable on the Heritage I traded in so he may be right???

But if I can get what I need from what I got, that's even better
Thanks
 
  #27  
Old 11-18-2011, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gr8bigdude
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  #28  
Old 11-18-2011, 07:55 PM
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suscribed
 
  #29  
Old 11-21-2011, 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Weekender1969
Not difficult for me to fathom at all, mostly cause I'm a cheapo!!!

But I am wondering if you or anyone for that matter, can give me some instructions on how to do it?

I just bought a Shark and I lean forward to much, would like to lean back a bit more.

My brother told me I need to get heritage bars for the glide and I would be more comfortable. Myself, I am guessing aftermarkets would be better. I was very comfortable on the Heritage I traded in so he may be right???

But if I can get what I need from what I got, that's even better
Thanks
My advice is to get a factory service manual. Getting to the handlebar clamps (to adjust the bars or change them for different ones) involves getting behind the fairing and that will be different for batwings and sharks. The bars are in two clamps, which when the screws are slackened lets them swing towards or away from you.

This is the sort of job that is best done with a buddy and some beer, to celebrate when it is all back together again! One of you can hold onto the bars to keep them in position, while the other slackens the clamping screws. If you try to do it on your own there is a risk the bars will move suddenly so you aren't sure where they were! Also while you sit on the bike and hold the bars where you want to try them, he can nip the clamps up so the bars stay in place.

Doing it first time will take quite a while, it is not a five minute job, but it will be quicker and easier next time you want to make further adjustments.
 
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