They changed the gearing in 5th and 6th gears in '09 to make 6th for usable at highway and not interstate.

 

I'm surprised. If it was a 60mph crack in 6th gear I might see this happening because of the gearing advantage of the '12 bike, but not anywhere else. I've ridden a stock '12 103 SG and there's no way that bike would pull my '07 SG with 96" with 255's and PV.

 

I have installed the 68t rear pulley. Forgot to mention that. Do I need a dyno tune?? I thought that Jamie should be able to get it very close. From all the reading I did on this forum I thought my combo of parts should have worked very well.

 

The 2007 has a 2.79 final gear ratio and the 2009 up has 2.87 ratio. The 07 had 66 rear sprocket and 12 has 68 tooth. The 103 has a .4 more compression ratio. Both weigh about the same. The stock cam has about the same torque and hp at the roll on rpm. Don't know how long you stayed in the throttle, but the 255 should have been stronger up at 90mph if it had had the same gear ratio. There is 7 cubic inch difference also. About the same as a 103 jumping on a 110. Guess who wins if everything else is equal.

 

It's actually very simple, SE255 cams make more mid range torque than horsepower.

 

How many trials did you guys run? Same result each time? Who hit the throttle first? That last question is the key - whoever hit the throttle first, even by just a fraction of a second, should pull away and continue to pull unless the latter is significantly faster.

 

Are you sure he was in 5th? If your buddies are like mine they'll tell you to do a 5th gear roll-on but they'll be in 4th or 3rd

 

OP did say that he's on an EGC while his buddy is on a SG, so he's carrying a bit of a weight penalty.

 

I have a 68t rear pulley...................... 2.79-2.87 is very close ratio. the 103 has stock cams, very lame if they are the same ones I removed from my bike this winter. They have no duration. I have to agree with iclick that his bike should not take mine. I'm contacting FuelMoto for help.
I was hoping their would have been something obvious I missed doing my upgrades.

 

It's all in the tune. Every motor although they are built on the same assembly line have slight and minute differences so a canned map will work great for most bikes but some need that bit of tweaking.
I'm a firm believer I'm getting an engine dyno tuned. The tuner can adjust so many variables and dial your bike in just right,accounting for subtle things,like elevation or more humid air.
You won't regret getting a dyno tune. My PVC had a generic map and my 106 made 95hp97tq.
I got it dyno tuned and it made 107hp115tq. And the dyno lines are so much different too. Instead of 2 really round type lines my tq curve was fairly flat hitting 100 at 2500rpm and staying over til 5300 rpm.
Hp was less of a mountain too,more like a hill.
What I'm saying is your tuner can adjust fuel and timing at every 50-100 rpms so those trims can be very finely tuned to get the very most out of your mods. Jmo