The Twin Peaks aren't dimpled like the stock bars so you will either have to run wires inside bars or make the hole larger where your clutch and brake perch is. Also had to make the exit hole at the bottom of the bars bigger to allow enough room to get the wires out of the bars.

@HDV-GLIDE. I didn't have to reroute anything to fit except for the wiring harness inside the fairing. Clutch and brake line fit perfect in the stock location. If you are "hell bent" and determined to keep the green plug(lol), find some marine grade heat shrink(it has glue on the inside) and use it. I've had so much trouble with them in the past that I just cut it out and solder it back together. Good luck.

 

Yeh, this was the conclusion I had come to and was not about to do it then. I will decide if I want to run them inside or outside during the winter. Funny though, after a slight adjustment forward on the stock bars they felt pretty good actually.
I gained a lot of confidence though through the project and am sure it won't be a big deal once I revisit the bars. I can always ask questions here!

Btw, I too found out I did not need any brake or clutch extensions. They would have been just right.

 

Hope the OP doesn't mind, but I'm guessing this info is helpful for all.

Just a small friendly tip, I used a 2m long chain I got from the home store to pull the TBW through the bars. Literally took less than 5min including prep time. This included both the twin peak and stock bars.

What other aftermarket bars out there have the "dimple" for mounting wires outside like the stock bars?

 

Just finished up my 10" Twin Peaks install yesterday. I went with +4" on clutch and brake line. I did not extend the wires and I did use the SE TBW Sensor. Do yourself a big favor and enlarge the lower hole where the wires come out as there was really not enough room on my bars to pull the three wire harnesses through. I did the left side wires first and freaked at how easy it went. Then when I did the right side had great difficulty pulling the large harness through without bending some of the pins. I did relocate the plugs inside the fairing since I didn't extend the wires. Now if all this tropical rain will stop I'll see how I like them as compared to the stock bars.

 

you do what you want im just saying I wouldn't bend anything. so I got the +2 brakeline. you are not going to be able to leave the master cyclinder connected. you will have to bleed the brakes. you can put a +4 on the clutch if you want ( I sure as hell wouldn't) most go with +6 and pull the extra back. reason I said let the dealer do it is because messing with the connectors and pulling the wires out and putting them back is very time consuming. and they did mine right. in about 2 hours. plus they have the "special tool". I guess my entire point is I told you what I did. it took me 2 days total to do my bars but I did a lot of extra stuff. and if you do not put poly bushings in well lets just say your ride is gonna suck. most guys who do there bars put poly bushings in for a reason. in the end your gonna do as you wish all I can say is take your time and good luck its not as easy to do as some will make you think it is. just have a manual next to you.

 

Ok, you convinced me, what's another $83.00 if it's going to make my life easier......Still going to replace the clutch cable while I have it apart.....

 

The cut and solder method works just fine. I've done it on numerous bikes without any problems. Either way I think you will enjoy the bars.

 

I am using the poly bushings. As far as the brake line, if I have to unhook the master cylinder (which I see no reason to) and bleed it, I have Speed Bleeders, so it's not too time consuming. As far as the connectors, just bought a tool for $14 shipped that unlocks the Molex connectors but a large paper clip can do the same job. I may drop down to the +4 clutch cable also....save a whole $4 there!!!!

 

He also thought you said bend(actually you said blend). And no you do not have to disconnect the master cylinder.

 

I got 98% of my parts ordered and all told, I'll have under $390 (out of pocket) invested.

Bars, +4 clutch cable, 2 mirrors, SE TBW extension, poly bushings, fairing hole plugs, molex tool and a gasket for the transmission trap door.

Using a $125 HD Chrome Cash Certificate for the TBW extension and gasket plus other items not related to the job.

Thanks Tim @ Eastern Performance for the great pricing.

Day or two of my labor = $0