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A couple of repair questions on a 2001 ElectraGlide

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Old 05-08-2014, 03:38 PM
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Default A couple of repair questions on a 2001 ElectraGlide

My son-in-law has a carbureted 2001 ElectraGlide that might have somewhere around 35k to 40k miles on it. He doesn't ride it much due to two issues and our daughter would like to surprise him and and the repairs done, but I need a little help on what to ask the shop to look for... she can't really ask him what it needs without tipping off the surprise.

First, I know that he is concerned about the mileage and likely wear on the original primary chain tensioners. What would this repair typically referred to as, and what would be a typical cost be at a shop?

Second, I think the bike is running a little ragged, maybe stalls (I think at idle or coming up to a stop, but don't remember from a ride more than two years ago), and certainly backfires (Fishtail pipes); would this be a common tune-up thing or something more specific with the carburetors needing work? Naturally, the shop needs to see the bike to get more specific details with what it needs, but I would to get some sort ball-park prices so I can let my daughter know and then she can determine if it's something she can swing right now with the total cost to repair.

Thank you.
 

Last edited by UltraClassicElectraGlide; 05-08-2014 at 03:41 PM.
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:01 PM
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It really isnt the primary chain that I would be worried about with that mileage. It would be the cam chain tensioners that I would be worried about.

It would be a couple hour labor and parts. If you swap the cams out that can easily run into 3k plus but just to repair and replace the original I would think around 500.

The other issue sounds like it needs a tune up. Her best bet is to look at some local shops and ask what they would charge.
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:05 PM
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1. I suspect he is referring to the camchain tensioners. They can give problems on early twincams, even failure resulting in engine damage. There is an upgrade kit available from H-D (and others) which replace the stock tensioners with hydraulic ones and seems to be a good upgrade.
2. Running problems can be down to a range of things, such as a leak in the exhaust or inlet (easily fixed), carb or ignition system problems.
3. Prices? I'll pass on that for others to comment on.
4. Best of luck on getting this bike running well again!
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 04:36 PM
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Junk the stock carb and get the Mikuni EZ 42 kit with a free flow filter setup. Bolts right on with very little tuning. New spark plugs, gapped correctly. Primary and cam chain pads replaced. Dump and flush the brake fluid and fork oil. Put some new tires on. Send the bike to a good detailer if you don't want to clean and polish it. Check the stator voltage after the regulator. Should be around 14vdc when engine above 2000 rpm.
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by howitzer88
Junk the stock carb and get the Mikuni EZ 42 kit with a free flow filter setup. Bolts right on with very little tuning. New spark plugs, gapped correctly. Primary and cam chain pads replaced. Dump and flush the brake fluid and fork oil. Put some new tires on. Send the bike to a good detailer if you don't want to clean and polish it. Check the stator voltage after the regulator. Should be around 14vdc when engine above 2000 rpm.
Thanks to all for the replies; I like the idea of replacing the cam pads too.
 
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Old 05-08-2014, 11:21 PM
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Here's a second recommendation for the Mikuni carb. Far better than the stock CV...
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:15 AM
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If he doesn't ride much, replacing the cam tensioner shoes is a couple hours labor and about $100 in parts. Nothing really wrong with the CV carb (if it is a carbed bike?) on a stock/stage 1 bike but ya need to find someone that can actually tune it. I'd guess a couple hours labor and up to $100 parts. Along with a good service she'll likely be over $1000.
 

Last edited by 0ldhippie; 05-09-2014 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 05-09-2014, 11:24 AM
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If the thing has unmuffled fishtails, basically (in my opinion) nothing you can do will keep that bike from running rough as a cob...eliminating back pressure is counterproductive to making the bike run as good as it can, so if your SIL is a slave to them, just give the bike a tuneup and detail, and let the rest of it roll. With the exception of replacing the cam chain followers...a worthy thing to do, of course upgrading to gear drive or hydraulic followers is better, but I suspect you're not interested in spending a thou or more.

As to how much it costs? Who knows? Just find yourself a good indy that you trust and get an estimate, if you feel good about it, you're golden!
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Veekness
If the thing has unmuffled fishtails, basically (in my opinion) nothing you can do will keep that bike from running rough as a cob...eliminating back pressure is counterproductive to making the bike run as good as it can, so if your SIL is a slave to them, just give the bike a tuneup and detail, and let the rest of it roll. With the exception of replacing the cam chain followers...a worthy thing to do, of course upgrading to gear drive or hydraulic followers is better, but I suspect you're not interested in spending a thou or more.

As to how much it costs? Who knows? Just find yourself a good indy that you trust and get an estimate, if you feel good about it, you're golden!
You mention the cam chain followers but didn't mention the primary tensioners; would you agree that based on the model year and mileage, those should at least be looked at, and likely will need to be replaced? Poked around YouTube and saw videos and came away with the feeling that both those areas are a problem.
 
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Old 05-09-2014, 01:23 PM
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I would address the stalling/ backfire issue first see what they come up with and then if all is well yes have the primary checked and all fluids changed also do a good ck on the tires how old are they?
 


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