Who has a drop kit on their RK?
#2
#3
I have a Dropseat kit on mine, and I love it! However, I'm not a big fan of Corbin seats. They have had spotty quality control for a few years running now, and I'd prefer some more off-the-shelf options for seats.
One negative to consider is that unless you have maintain a factory-height rear suspension, the new fusebox will rub the belt. Period. I am talking with John over at Baggerwerx to figure out if there is something we can do to reposition the fusebox to allow a greater distance between it and the belt. Up until now, I've been running a field-expedient(diy) fusebox.
Here's how mine looks now. Note that my daughter is only barely 5' 0" at the time.
https://plus.google.com/photos/+Jose...63345260036129
One negative to consider is that unless you have maintain a factory-height rear suspension, the new fusebox will rub the belt. Period. I am talking with John over at Baggerwerx to figure out if there is something we can do to reposition the fusebox to allow a greater distance between it and the belt. Up until now, I've been running a field-expedient(diy) fusebox.
Here's how mine looks now. Note that my daughter is only barely 5' 0" at the time.
https://plus.google.com/photos/+Jose...63345260036129
#4
I dropped the rear on mine 2"s I think. It's a POS ebay block kit, but I haven't had 1 issue at all in about 4 years.
I'd like to drop it the full 3"s but I understand I'll burn/rub the harness in the rear wheel well.
It does look badass though.
2" has had no ill effects... Scrape the boards a little earlier but other than that, no issues.
I'd like to drop it the full 3"s but I understand I'll burn/rub the harness in the rear wheel well.
It does look badass though.
2" has had no ill effects... Scrape the boards a little earlier but other than that, no issues.
#5
With the dropseat kit, there is no change in the rear wheel well geometry. The way it does this is a modification of the frame section where the seat is. Because of the positioning change, the ABS box has to be replaced with the one in the kit, and the fuse box issue I noted earlier. Also, the aluminum ABS tubes have to be slightly bent to accommodate the new position, and the power lines down at the bottom near the starter have to be reversed in orientation. Those are all(except for the fuse box issue) really easy to handle. The tire clearance never changes, so that is something I have yet to run into.
I used to run 12" shocks with a 1.5" drop using the lowering blocks, but that only addressed the rear. The rear tire would rub every now and again, which ended up killing my wires. I rewired the rear and learned my lesson.
With the new mid-frame, the actual riding position is much lower, and puts me deep down into the bike. Just last year, I added a couple of diy tank lift brackets to the front of the tank to raise it up almost two inches. It really helps keep the heads cooler, and makes it a lot easier to get in there and clean! (Also looks pretty nice)
I used to run 12" shocks with a 1.5" drop using the lowering blocks, but that only addressed the rear. The rear tire would rub every now and again, which ended up killing my wires. I rewired the rear and learned my lesson.
With the new mid-frame, the actual riding position is much lower, and puts me deep down into the bike. Just last year, I added a couple of diy tank lift brackets to the front of the tank to raise it up almost two inches. It really helps keep the heads cooler, and makes it a lot easier to get in there and clean! (Also looks pretty nice)
#6
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