Working on a 07 cvo 110 ultra with .025 runout. I see now s&s sells new flywheels through drag. Are they any good? not sure if time allows to send off for rebuild, looking at options. Mike

 

S&S Cycle also recently started welding some flywheels, TC and M8. After so many years of them saying it isn't needed, they fell in line with everyone else.

Personally I prefer to use Darkhorse as they will balance the new crank assembly to the weight of your pistons, rings, pin, etc. They also supply H-Beam rods that are as strong as they get in the industry. It's well worth the wait.

If your set on getting an S&S crank, make sure that Drags are selling the welded assemblies.

 

Hands down exactly what ohio said. My crank went south in my 08 cvo road king a few years ago at around 50k. Bit the bullet at the time and waited for a man o war from darkhorse. Its been 100% bullet proof for the last 50k. At the time i didn't want to wait because it was in September and we have a short enough season as it is but they turned it around within 2 weeks. Sucked at the time but its been nice not having to worry about it at all.

 

Thanks, I hadn't see the welded option. Darkhorse is first choice but I don't like my lift being tied up long term. any idea on how long repairs are taking lately? 4-5 weeks last time i sent one.Mike

 

Call Andrew at Darkhorse, he can tell you how long it will take.
You can buy a completely new crank from them, or you can send yours in and have them rebuild it with a new crank pin, their H-Beam rods, and balanced to your new pistons. It saves a few bucks that way. I just pulled down a 117" TC that I had an OEM HD crank that I sent to Darkhorse to be setup for the 117". 44k miles and the runout is still 0.0004 on the pinion side, and 0.001 on the sprocket side. The motor made 133 HP and 127 torque.

 

FYI: When I have a motor out of a bike, and want to free the lift up, I hang the transmission case from the frame backbone with 3/8" rope and take the bike off the lift. Any other bits that you have hanging from the bike tie up as well.

 

Personally the current ones are way better than the early ones that used a 1.5 inch crank pin.. IMO they don't need welding but one thing SnS started doing was pro-plugging the crank pin with solid steel plug. The early ones were aluminum plugs.

I've had early SnS cranks spread not twist. Pulled the crank apart and I could see the wheel hole rubbing against the pin on the inside and the crank was spreading. One was welded and it still spread. The newer SnS are pretty stout.

FWIW the 07s had issues.. Some were good and some were bad. I put 125000 miles on one in a mostly 103/107. Lifter died but the crank was shot. Ordered the new SnS with full width upper rods..

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/twin-...l#post22039439

 

I remember seeing an S&S video on how much force it took to shift the wheels on their standard tc wheel sets and believe it was something a little over 4000 foot pounds.. They're stronger than most think..

EDITED: Found the link..

You Tube

 

I bet if S&S did a video on their welded cranks, they won't slip at all.

 

Very possible.. Funny thing is I don't hear much noise on stock wheels any more.. They have gotten better.. My stock wheels have been handling 130/125 without issue for over 10k miles now.. Over the winter I will be installing a set of S&S Wheels with an S&S 117" bbk...