V Rods being tough as old boots and dead reliable means that apart from basic servicing I don't work on many and this week we did our first clutch swap.

01-07 clutches can't take a lot of punishment and this one crapped itself at 11,500 miles (of hard abuse by a customer who kills every bike he owns).

He didn't want to do the slipper conversion so we got him a Barnett upgrade.

Now.......coupla things you might wanna know if you are doing a V Rod clutch.

Firstly, always purchase a new clutch hub nut because if your rattle gun isn't up to it you can get the nut off by drilling a couple of holes in it (use a cobalt bit) and splitting it with a chisel. Have the bike in gear, with the brakes on when doing this

Secondly.....don't read the manual when it comes to reassembling the clutch!!! H-D make a dog's breakfast out of a really easy operation because they don't like to use words like "wiggle it about until it slips in" they are not technical enough. You also don't need any of the special tools the manual mentions.

Here is how I do it.

Mark the clutch components as you take it apart so its balanced when it goes back.

Assemble the clutch (soak the plates first) and lightly snug the bolts that tension the cltuch springs so you can still move the plates but it doesn't fall apart in your hands.

Line up the first plate and start to slide the clutch in, align each plate as it enters the grooves in the basket.

At some point the hub will hit the splines as it reaches the shaft. Use a thin flat-head screwdriver to align the splines and center the hub.

Continue as before until all the plates are in.

Tighten the clutch spring bolts.

Lock the primary drive with a flat head screwdriver or alloy wedge and torque the hub nut fully.

Chuck the primary cover and exhaust back on and fill with oil etc.

The special tools you don't need are:

Clutch locking tool.

Hub alignment tool.

Spring bolt alignment tools.

Ride safe and save some time and money with Dr Spanners

 

Thanks Spanners, I have a '07 VRSCDX and this could come in handy.
Rod

 

Do the post '08 slipper conversion if you can afford it.

 

I know this is an old thread but came across it because I am replacing the clutch in my 09 night rod special. Does anyone have any more details about how to lock the primary in place with out the Jims lock tool? Spanners says above you can do it with a screwdriver or aluminum wedge but wondering if anyone can expand a little bit. I have locked the primary on my TC88 before, but that is very different from what I can see. This is my first VROD and want to lock it right so it doesnt turn over when I am tightening the new nut back up clockwise.

 

Good evening ladies and gents. Quick question. I just purchased a 2016 Vrod muscle. Fell in love with the bike almost immediately but the clutch felt like it was worn down to almost the end of its life. I asked the sales rep and the dealer and one of their technicians if it needed to be replaced. They said no, the hydraulic clutch and the fact that its a fast bike means its just going to have a quick catching clutch. I was slightly unimpressed with their answer. I've ridden motor cycles for about 7 years now and never one with a hydraulic clutch nor a V-Rod. Is this true. Does the V-Rod just have very little play in the clutch? Help please haha. Thank you.

 

yup that's the way the hydraulic clutch works!! Mine starts to engage when its almost all the way out. No free play adjustment! The main thing is to purge the oil every 2 years/ Mione has the DOT5 and it will just not disengage the clutch after about 3 years so I purge it every 2 yeas! Might be longer with the DOT4?

 

I put in a Slipper Clutch for VRSC Models Part Number 37938-08KA in my 2007 is this the clutch you are talking about?