that almost flush side will be the ABS bearing, it's wider than the other. you'll be able to tell the difference just by looking. the STD bearing will have a traditional rubber seal and the ABS won't. it will be more like a metal shield. you can probably read the bearing #. ABS is #9252, Std is #9276 or 9276A

 

ok Thanks, I will look when I get home.

well I do not know how I missed it but I do have a ABS bearing. now I will have to change it out. Now to find a bearing puller.

 

If you're looking to do this yourself, this one looks good.(Pit Posse VT-102) A few on Ebay at a fair price. Or you could take the wheel & bearings to your local Shop/HD dealership to switch out. And this youtube video may be helpful.

 

I want to do this swap myself with the 1" bearings. I know the bearing pockets are shorter (especially on the non-abs side). So you just put the 1"ers in as far as they would go and then made shorter axle spacers? If this is correct, could you give me the measurements? Oh, and I am planning to run the brembo rotors and calipers. Thanks for any help you can give.

 

Hey multidhrdr....if I were to get one of your 18's made into a rear, I would like to use 1" bearings (those skinny 25mm's have failed too many times). I guess I would have to make my axle spacers to fit, correct? You don't machine the bearing pockets deeper do you? If not what side is the deeper pocket on, pulley or rotor? Thanks for your reply...

 

Mr. Captain

Actually the other way around, deeper on non-abs side.
Left: "Primary" side (for front wheel) - Shallow Counterbore - ABS or STD bearing
Right: Valve Stem Side - Deeper Counterbore - STD Bearing

Basically YES, with the following cautions and considerations.

FRONT Wheel Bearing Installation Reference: Press left "Primary" side bearing to bottom of bore, insert internal spacer, install right side bearing just to when the inner race touches the internal spacer (bearing doesn't bottom out)If you replaced the STD 25mm ID x 15mm Wide bearings used in the 18" wheel with 1" ID x 21mm Wide bearings using the same "25mm" internal spacer, you would then shorten each "correctly sized" wheel spacer width dimension by 6mm = .236, (the difference between the 15mm & 21mm bearing widths).

Shortened "Correctly sized" wheel spacer widths
Left Spacer: 1.012" (for 15mm bearing width used '08-'13) - 6mm/.236 = .776
Right Spacer: .899" (for proper '00-'07 1" axle positioning) - 6mm/.236 = .663

Those 21mm wide bearings are going to stick out both sides. Approximately 1/16" on the left and closer to an 1/8" on the right.

The left side "is what it is". Can't adjust without increasing depth of counterbore, but the right side can be adjusted by taking that 6mm/.236 off the internal spacer, letting the 21mm increased width move towards the inside and then leaving the right wheel spacer at .899". I think there is enough left in the counterbore for this.

Make sense?

 

There is a slight protrusion as stated but it's not an issue. I made 2) 1" id x 1 1/2"od x .780" wide spacers, the same on each side. Lined up perfect for me. 3,000 miles so far and all is good.

 

Yep, that will also work. The rotor/calipers alignments are the same using either Right Side Spacer because of different methods used for Right Slider positioning.


My Quote
Left (the critical one) Spacer Width: .776 vs .780(your#) ... essentially the same.

.663 Right Spacer width: Right Slider held to edge of cross drilled hole in axle per Service Manual instructions for 00-07 1" axle Touring Models. You will see between the right bearing and inside of slider .113 of the axle along with the .663 wide spacer. So SPACING IS .776 made up of part spacer and part axle.

.780 Right Spacer width: Right Slider is spaced from bearing by spacer only as on '08 and later 25mm axle Touring Models

So Right Side Spacing: .776 vs .780(your #) ... essentially the same.

So why wouldn't i just install a .776 spacer on the right also and be done with it? Because the .776 spacer would shift the axle to the right by .113 (btw, the shift doesn't affect any rotor/calipers alignments) the 25mm axle is machined differently than the 1" axle to compensate for the shift to the right. I choose to make spacers so that the 1" axle will be located in the same position as originally intended.



If I can, I'll mock up the differences and take a photo for a visual aid

 

yes I am going to do this. I ordered the tool a week and half ago to find out yesterday that they have not even shipped it yet. this sucks as I wanted to ride this weekend.

 

Seems the platers are not to concerned about smoothing out the rough cast area. Smoothing the area out is part of the chrome plating process. & some don't mention a charge for chrome removal, only one mentioned $25 to remove.