I just started an installation of a complete car audio component system into my FLHX and will post pictures and how to instructions of the entire project. This is a major upgrade that includes a new head unit, 4-channel high current amplifier (going into the rear bags), 5.25" component speakers (going in the fairing), sub woofers (going in the rear bags), complete cabling of the system, mounting plates for the amplifier and subs, soundproofing and carpeting of the bags and inner fairing, integration of a hand control converter for existing handlebar switches, and the addition of quick disconnects for the rear bags so they can be removed quickly. I will post pictures and technical tips for those who may follow and will detail the entire project as I go along. This work will be done throughout January and i'll try and wrap it up before months end, so check back for updates to this first post in the thread.

1. Remove the seat and rear bags from your bike. This will allow you to access the battery (you may want to remove the appropriate fuses or disconnect your batteryat this time) and the hidden bolt for removal of the gas tank and the upper dash plate. You will need the tank removed so that you can access the wiring tray that runs underneath the tank and along the top of the frame rail.



2. Remove the rear bolt that secures the tank, and the 2 screws inside the gas cap door. Now carefully remove the dash plate from the filler spout and set the dash plate aside. Next unplug the harness that connects to the tank,undo thevent tube at the filler neck, and now you can disconnect the fuel lines at the front of the tank to drain it (watch this vent tube in the front as it drains from both sides and can make a real mess if you aren't prepared for the rush of fuel that comes out) or siphon the gas from your tank prior to removal. With all fuel removed and the lines disconnected, remove the front mounting screws so you can lift and remove the tank from the bike. I cut some short fuel line hoseand capped them off with bolts before installing them onto the drain stems prior to tank removal.Keeps any residual fuel from spilling out when you lift the tank off.


(Above) vent tube/harness shown before disconnecting for tank removal. (Below)Wiring trayshown after tank removal.


3. Now you can focus on the front fairing. Remove the 2 inner bolts under the triple tree, and the 2 from the inside fairing. Next you can remove the 3 bolts from the top outer edge of the fairing next to the windshield. Save the center bolt for last, allowing you to hold the fairing cap from the underside as you remove this last bolt. The fairing is light and will lift away in your hands when the last bolt is removed. Cover your front fender with a towel in case you drop a tool or something. Next, reach in and uncouple the headlight harness connector and set the fairing cap aside for safekeeping. Now your radio is exposed along with the speakers in the fairing. Remove as required depending on the amount of upgading your doing in there. I will remove the H/K deck and speakers from this fairing.



Fairing cap, and Speakers removed...more to follow on the weekend. Stay tuned.

 

Thanks for going so in depth. I appreciate it. I want to add an amp and speakers to my bags on my rk custom, so I am looking forward to the subs and amp you will be installing... as well as the quick disconnect hookup, so the bags can be removed... Staying tuned...

 

Good write up GlideMan.... I am interested in seeing what you come up with. I have read so many posts on systems of bikes and coming from a custom car audio world I have always wondered why more people don't do what you are doing. To me you get better sound for better prices.



Jeff

 

absolutely correct "To me you get better sound for better prices."