SERT
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,733
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From: Oakland County, Michigan
SERT
Ordered the SERT, SE Mufflers and SE Air Cleaner today. Question is: Should I take the Tuner to a dealer to install due to warranty issue's down the road, or knowing I'm capable of doing this type of work is it ok to install myself using a canned MAP then taking the bike in for a Dyno Tune? Will there be any warranty issue's here?
Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: milwaukee
RE: SERT
before you Install your Parts, ( need to SERT)
run it stock till your READY to do your OWN SERT!
I recommend you do your OWN SERT,
start with a Fatter Map, like Stage 1 for 1550 motor with pipes.
I have finally Read My SERT Manual
and there IS SO MUCH YOU CAN DO!
you can adjust EVERYTHING,
warm up cycle,
Accelerator Pump simulator ammount,
Idle speed,
LOTS.
I wasted $300 to have the Dealer do my SERT
and it still is NOT RIGHT!
so i am doing my own!
Looking for a LAPTOP right now.
run it stock till your READY to do your OWN SERT!
I recommend you do your OWN SERT,
start with a Fatter Map, like Stage 1 for 1550 motor with pipes.
I have finally Read My SERT Manual
and there IS SO MUCH YOU CAN DO!
you can adjust EVERYTHING,
warm up cycle,
Accelerator Pump simulator ammount,
Idle speed,
LOTS.
I wasted $300 to have the Dealer do my SERT
and it still is NOT RIGHT!
so i am doing my own!
Looking for a LAPTOP right now.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 25
Likes: 0
RE: SERT
word of advice............using the 1550 map on a 1450 will make the motor run too rich and you will have a hot running motor.....also, you will blu your pipes about 3" from the head because too much fuel is going out the exhaust and is igniting in the pipe!!
but, it will run real real good!!!
but, it will run real real good!!!
Banned
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
From:
RE: SERT
The Tuner voids the warranty so it doesn't matter who installs it. THe combination you are doing is a canned map on the Tuner.
DO NOT install a 1550 map in a 1450. It will have retarded timing and too much fuel. The "power" is from being too rich.
Use a 1450 map, set all the 14#'s to 14.1 or 14.2 in the AFR table, add 1-1.5 degrees timing at 90-100KPA for the entire rpm range and have fun.
DO NOT install a 1550 map in a 1450. It will have retarded timing and too much fuel. The "power" is from being too rich.
Use a 1450 map, set all the 14#'s to 14.1 or 14.2 in the AFR table, add 1-1.5 degrees timing at 90-100KPA for the entire rpm range and have fun.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 3,654
Likes: 362
From: Mansfield Texas
RE: SERT
There are alot of folks running a 1550 map on a 1450.
I am one of them and my bike loves it, my pipes were
blue before that as they all do, and it is not running hot
and it is very hot here in Texas. Besides I was told to
start with this map, it would be a little rich on the top end
but that can be fixed. Last tank of fuel I got 43mph driving
too and from work, and I don't putt around.
And Mike...glad to hear it worked for ya.
I am one of them and my bike loves it, my pipes were
blue before that as they all do, and it is not running hot
and it is very hot here in Texas. Besides I was told to
start with this map, it would be a little rich on the top end
but that can be fixed. Last tank of fuel I got 43mph driving
too and from work, and I don't putt around.
And Mike...glad to hear it worked for ya.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
From:
RE: SERT
Glad you think it's correct. But the reality is that a 1550 map isn't optimal for a 1450 no matter what you were told.
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Elite HDF Member
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From: Mansfield Texas
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Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 581
Likes: 7
From: Portland, OR
RE: SERT
The Tuner voids the warranty so it doesn't matter who installs it. THe combination you are doing is a canned map on the Tuner.
DO NOT install a 1550 map in a 1450. It will have retarded timing and too much fuel. The "power" is from being too rich.
Use a 1450 map, set all the 14#'s to 14.1 or 14.2 in the AFR table, add 1-1.5 degrees timing at 90-100KPA for the entire rpm range and have fun.
DO NOT install a 1550 map in a 1450. It will have retarded timing and too much fuel. The "power" is from being too rich.
Use a 1450 map, set all the 14#'s to 14.1 or 14.2 in the AFR table, add 1-1.5 degrees timing at 90-100KPA for the entire rpm range and have fun.
You say installing a SERT voids the warranty. Is this the 2 yr warranty or the extended warranty or both? Do you know this for sure? âCause I better figure this out so I cash out my extended warranty quick as it is pro-rated.
Can you explain why we should advance the timing by 1-1.5 degrees?
1-1.5 degrees is a lot of increments in the timing table?????
Banned
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 866
Likes: 1
From:
RE: SERT
Yes, technically installation of it voids the warranty. Call HD customer service to verify.
Regarding the timing and the unit relationship. The units affect every table differently. This is because the units vary from VE, to degrees of timing to milliseconds - you get the idea. Therefore, a 20 unit click on a VE table moves the physical VE# in the table 10 numbers which equates to about an entire air fuel point, and a 20 unit click in a timing table is 5 degrees. Now, the timing tables are able to be incremented in 1/4 degree increments which is basically useless to all but the most extreme tuners. Also, these are air cooled motors. They will blow more horse and torque by simply bringing them fully up to temp, making sure drivetrain is hot. then let it cool for about 5 min, start it up, let the warm up fuel come out and blow a run. This will typically be the best run.
A one degree timing change is nothing on the map I suggested to you. You could even try 1.5 or 2 and see how it runs.
Have fun, trust me, I wouldn't steer you wrong like so many people who post on here and have no clue about what they are telling people to do.
Regarding the timing and the unit relationship. The units affect every table differently. This is because the units vary from VE, to degrees of timing to milliseconds - you get the idea. Therefore, a 20 unit click on a VE table moves the physical VE# in the table 10 numbers which equates to about an entire air fuel point, and a 20 unit click in a timing table is 5 degrees. Now, the timing tables are able to be incremented in 1/4 degree increments which is basically useless to all but the most extreme tuners. Also, these are air cooled motors. They will blow more horse and torque by simply bringing them fully up to temp, making sure drivetrain is hot. then let it cool for about 5 min, start it up, let the warm up fuel come out and blow a run. This will typically be the best run.
A one degree timing change is nothing on the map I suggested to you. You could even try 1.5 or 2 and see how it runs.
Have fun, trust me, I wouldn't steer you wrong like so many people who post on here and have no clue about what they are telling people to do.