I've tried many things to try to get my clutch pressure plate to release evenly. No matter what I do it seems to release sideways. I'm running an old ratchet top 4 speed with a belt drive. Everything works okay but I get a lot of chatter and some slipping.

I tried to use the old trick of balancing the release by tightening the nuts differently but no matter what I do the plate releases sideways. I wouldhave to crank them down about 1/2 inch tigher on one side to get some balance in the release.

Seems like the push rod must be off center to me.

Anyone else have experience with this? How did you fix it?

 

There is really no fix to the problem. It's just one of those old shovel quirks, like pucking oil. The thing to make sure of is that your spring retainer is square to the pressure plate. Use as little spring as possible for a light pull at the bar. If you can roll the throttle in 4th gear at 40 mph, and it doesn't slip, you got it right. Follow the manual on adjustment.

 

will a clutch tamer or longer roller bearings fix some of issues?

any dry friction plates or steel drive plates better?

I have a rocker-foot clutch and a hand shift. And right now it will slip when I really get on it in 3rd gear so I'm light on the pull.

 

Foot clutch....all bets are off. You've probably glazed your fibers, and overheated your steels. Here's what I would do: Pull them back off, and hit the fibers with a sandblaster, sugar sand, and wash them with soapy water and let them dry. Blast the steels, and check them to make sure they aren't warped. A machined staight edge works best. Check the dogs inside of the clutch shell to make sure they aren't grooved and any oil/grease is removed. Get rid of the anti rattle devices on the steels so they will float with a little play.I always liked to hear clutch rattle on a foot shifter.
The tamer works good, a pain in the *** to install, and if you do install one make sure you use the cir-clips. For your application, the longer bearings really aren't worth the hassle.
One last thing, look at the adjusting screw in the middle of your pressure plate and make sure the ball bearing is still there.
When you go back together with it, do the fourth gear thing until it doesn't slip. Tighten it two "clicks" each adjustment.

 

I used to pull the clutch apart every week and yes, it would work much better for about a week after I cleaned it. I think the Alto fiber plates are too easy to glaze and I should try another material. Maybe Kevlar? I can see the shine on the fiber surface.

I do hear the rattle/clatter so I know things are pretty loose. The bike shifts well but I do get alot of chirping and shearing noises when I start out in 1st. This is most likely due to the glazing of the fiber plates.

I could go to a York or Rivera set up.

 

Unless you REALLY want to go and spend BIG bucks on an aftermarket clutch, a little work will make the one you have work. the The street/strip racer I had had a stock hub/plates and steels.
You said you hear chirping and shearing. Did you check the throwout bearing under the kicker cover?
Proper adjustment and servicable parts go a long way in a good clutch.

 

I was thinking about your problem today when I saw a shovel going down the road. I snaped to the fact that You said you have a belt drive, which means you have a aftermarket shell. Do this.. Pull your plates out, and put them back in starting with a steel. Don't freek out, it'll work. Stack your plates, the steel I told you to put in first, fiber, steel ect ending with a fiber for the pressure plate. You should get 3 steels and 4 fibers. Adjust your springs and try it. While you have the plates out, look at the friction surface inside of the shell to see if it is knawed up, grooved and generally not in good shape. Starting with the steel will give you a new shell friction surface. Check that throwout bearing. Al

 

Dude check this links , I put one of these in a 93' motor with the Alto 6 plate kevlar clutch kit and I freaking love it , simple stupid install and 2 finger pull . For a stock set up this is a no brainer , I've been beating hell outa shovelheads for 39 yrs and this took all the stupid out of clutch problems and I,ve run them with 8mm and 11mm belt drive systems using the stock caged bearing setup with a light coating extreme duty bearing grease . As with any shovel clutch on really hot days around town you will feel a little drag but nothing like the old setup pulling through a stop light . Cheap fix really and if you don't like you still get a new 5 finger hub to work with . Total cost is less than a new hub , the aluminum pressure plate , new springs and the 5 hole retainer which what you need to correct your problem as you described .
Good luck.

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Yup, there are a million fixes for the dry clutch. On a stroker it is inadequate. On a stock 74 or 80 it'll work. Affording some of the aftermarket clutches is difficult at best for some folks. The five stud hub is a definate improvement, with kevlar plates and tamer. As long as the belt drive basket isn't boogered up inside, those fixes will work. A lot of those baskets are aluminum and scar easily. I had to have mine resurfaced at a machine shop a couple of times until I started with a steel on the stack.
I wish there had been some of this aftermarket stuff back in '70 when I had my first shovel.